Wednesday, November 30





dairy farm

I had a gr8 day there today!! Although I only climbed 3 routes, ie spent most of my time slacking..which is also why i love climbing outdoors..got this v shiok slack feeling. It's not crowded and there's no need to pay.

Eli brought her little maltese there and he had a lot of fun running all around the huge grass patch but later he got bitten by ants and was jumping around shivering with pain so we had to bring him home to bathe then come back agn.

Too bad we didnt bring any camera so there are no fotos.. Do the juniors want to go there again next week? Dun mind bringing some ppl there.

Monday, November 28

www.nusclimb.com

Guys & Gals!

Presenting the all new Climbing Sub-Club website!

Check out the new format and layout. All you need is to sign up as a site member and you will be able to post articles, participate in discussions and more. Really user-friendly layout now, versus the past design that was largely dedicated to info broadcast.

Check it out and start posting articles k?


JKLM

Bouncing Back!

Woo Hoo!

My injuries have recovered almost completely and I can climb again! Just finished up to the 6C endurance routes in Climb Asia today. *phew* Finally...

I'm still weak in terms of arms and fingers. Ah well, back to the old-school training, I guess. Anyone wanna join me? Heh... I'm probably starting something from square one.... T_T

Oh, anyone has ideas about the team training program? What plans / ideas till our first comp?

Perhaps to help Coach and Capt & Gang decide, we could just throw some ideas up?



JKLM

Saturday, November 26

No Yishun SAFRA

Hallo. Latest update! Yishun SAFRA is out of bounds until Wednesday due to rehearsals for the soft launch of the 25m wall which has involved set-up of tentage just in front of the inclined walls. And apparently, the non-inclined walls are also non-climbable as some climbers discovered today upon reaching Yishun SAFRA...

Suggestion for a Day after exams.....

How abt early morning bouldering/climbing at dairy farm, then makan outside gym, then some urban climbing at NUS.

**Urban climbing - http://www.urban-climbing.com/en/historique.php

Thursday, November 24

RE: Yishun Climb

Tues is good!

Haha.. maybe you can teach me a thing or two on lead climbing ehz? I'm onz.


Yishun Climb

So when are we climbing? if its next tuesday,then i can leave sch at ard 3pm+,think i'll ve a express myself. So wat say u ppl?

Monday, November 21

so hard...

zzz today mentioned (as he was about to go home) that it is very hard to leave the gym...

I think we can all empathise with that statement.. Even though staying sometimes holds no more climbing purpose (too tired after fingerboard/trg etc to attempt routes) there is this mysterious force that holds you back.

The gym is like a strong magnet!

RED ALERT: BIG BOULDER FOUND

Firstly I must explain why I was absent from the climbing gym for so many days.

Me and my friend was jogging in McRichie/McRicthie/McRichtcie/McChicken reservoir (not sure on how to spell it..). Jog and talked hee hee haa haa..then we decided to steer off course and take the less taken route. It was near afternoon so it was safe as the sun is shining.

Guess what we saw after we steer off course. A huge boulder. Big. Tua. Si-beh tua.

Wah piang wah lau wah lan.

Besar macam kelapa.

It is grey in color. Two storeys high! Gaah! And there were only small trees around it so they cushion any fall from the boulder.

I tell you shiok siah!

Woohoo!

The boulder was stuck at a corner. Must be boh-liao like us to spot it one. We climbed it lah! Fuh tested here and there. There was like 20 different routes from that single boulder alone (!!!). Happiness! Day after day for the whole week and weekend we 'developed' the boulder. Nice boulder i tell you! Initially it need some scrubbing but after a while, it is clean! The grooves are nice too. Even after it rained, the boulder is still soft and supple! Ahh..superb! I tell you there is also one part of the boulder which has this route which requires transversing then lunge for a double crimper! Gaah! My gawd. Then there is also another part of the boulder

Poof!

Study la. No such boulder lah.

Get back to your books. Shoo. Haha :)

Saturday, November 19

fingerboard

now that i've started to do fingerboard, it's quite addictive...

First i climb lightly for an hour or two. Then I do warm-up on the big rungs. i ladder to the top w/o skipping rungs. 2 sets and then stretch.

Then i do touches 1-4-3-4-3-4 and also laddering 1- 3 - 5 (my max, can't do 1-4-7 yet, argh!!) both on the 2nd left most rungs. Do about 3 sets of both. 1 set will include leading with both right and left hands.

After this i will do some power-endurance exercise, which is laddering 2x up and down ie Start from the bottom (of 2nd left most rungs), ladder to the top, match and then ladder down, match and then ladder up, match and then ladder down to the bottom and match. Do about 2sets.

And my fingers will be damn shack!!! but it feels v good..amazingly good!

Thursday, November 17

Sweaty Palms and Feet

Tah dah! My first paper ended today.

I was trying to sleep yesterday but i can't. Tossed and turned. Keep thinking about climbing! whether should i go Kl trip, if my budget permits it, where in KL i can climb and i might extend my stay there too!

toss and turn toss and turn,
one hour on my bed thinking about it

After the exams are over i will chiong the walls too! All over singapore muahaha. This one must thank my friend whose exams are over already. TJC, Yishun, ClimbAsia, NUS and maybe Dairy Farm will be our playground.

toss and turn toss and turn,
another hour on my bed thinking about it

Huah! How can all of you all focus siah..palms and feet are sweating as I dream about the secret 141 moves of climbing.

lonely

The NUS climbing gym is lonely! It used to be filled with happy laughing children and adults and now instead it is filled by silence...

So sad.

Anyone wants to climb tmrw? (Fri)

Wednesday, November 16

Yishun fotos

Presenting to you... "A day at Yishun with Team Junwei!"
















It seemed very hot at first so we all put suntan
lotion provided by our leader--->

Health first! Exam time must take care of health













We were all psyched up!




Alvin (me) before his warmup






















Weimin doing the blue route ..almost onsighted. :P
















Junwei was doing his warm up routine (of 3 hard routes in a row, what kinda warm up is that?!) when he fell badly on the 3rd one... This is what he got --> Rope burn!! Notice the white white thing... that is flesh before the blood starts to come out ..yucks!


Junwei is really a MAN and i respect his guts.. He says that the wound is his punishment for not completing the route... ^^;











Zhengxin's red-point of green route..

Congrats!














Soon after that, it was CAT 1!!! look at the Cat 1 sign at Yishun's window and a very unhappy JW. I had only done 2 warm up routes.. :( ARGHHH















The nice new wall at Yishun..can't wait for it's grand opening! I think it's supposed to be 3rd Dec...we can go everyday during the holidays on weekdays when it's not crowded

Finally, nothing better to end it off than dessert at this small dessert stall near Yishun Ring road unaccessible by foot (quite a distance). The whole team junwei in the foto below.


interesting happenings

Despite only climbing for a short while, there were several interseting happenings today!

1) Junwei fell TEN panels.... crazy idiot..skip runner la!! :P Now he has this huge rope burn..all white flesh with blood..no skin! :D

Immediately after, i fell 5/6 panels (at exactly the same spot/luckily i didnt skip runner)..but nothing compared to him already.

2) Zhengxin finished the green route on his first try!! (woohoo!!)

3) It was CAT 1...luckily we were refunded. To yishun immediately after the exams!! Monday Afternoon 28th Nov.

Wilson was a very good reporter and managed to get several fotos...junwei will post them up in a jiffy... ^.^

Team Junwei

Today, me and zhengxin were a bit buay paiseh and we decided to join junwei for a run.

Anyway, we seldom see Junwei take off his shirt in the gym right? But for the run he did and our eyes were treated to a feast! Those who went Krabi last June may remember, Junwei is a big lump of muscle...All sharp lines and etched muscles..

Are you a lump of muscle too?

Tuesday, November 15

Exams are coming??

yeah...exams starts this friday and i'm supposed to be studying....yet i climbed for the past 2 days. ^^ after studyin' of coz...i shall not climb tomorrow. lets hope u all have good weather at yishun safra tomorrow.

finally completed the endurance route Lilies today =) felt real good after that...been working on it for slightly over a week. should be targetting roses next. still haven't really tried after falling from the 5th tile. >< yes...i'm that bad with small holds....or maybe i didn't try hard enough. i won't noe till i try again.

haha...interesting self-motivational method by junwei....but i'm too lazy for that (yes, i'm a lazy climber =P) to me, psyching up like very waste brain energy. (not a lot for me to start with) haha...by the time i start already palms sweating like siao and hav to keep on chalking. waste chalk! i prefer to climb with a peaceful mind...not to be bothered too much by the route. keeping calm rather than feeling that adrenaline rush helps me climb better....to focus on how to overcome the problem.

wish everyone gdluck for the exams!!

Sunday, November 13

Me, Myself and XYZ

I finally completed my two-week long project at Yishun SAFRA - the green route on the right wall (overhang side). Yes, it ain't THAT difficult but I like it because the crux move is both physical and (very) psychological to me - due to the span and body position. Took me 3 tries before I freakin' redpointed it today. Many thanks to Jess for her support! I like such routes, where it's "me against myself" kind. To Zhengxin and Alvin who have intentions to make it their project, I will use the XYZ motivation method again haha. I am XYZ! Honestly speaking, in terms of strength and endurance, I am definitely not better than you *everybody nods their heads*. If I can do it, you also can. It's just whether you're gonna do it. Just psyche yourself up, and I'm sure you'll be surprised how easy it can be for you.

p.s. Sorry for not going CA today, Xiangliang. I thought I'd redpoint my Yishun SAFRA project within 2 tries., then do some conditioning on lapis routes, then join you at CA for some bouldering. But my project really gave my body a total work-out, with the retrieval of quickdraws and all =P


A nice foto of climbing in South Africa (freakclimbing.com)

Friday, November 11

yishun == krabi?

hello hello..

this is wat ong junwei said.. when me, zhengxin and me were on the way back from yishun... he said that today;s climb was like the days in krabi.. i kinda of feel it too.. and miss it very much.. but i cant now.. onli junwei can.. haha.. i muz study!!
i think it is the dessert.. after the climb.. tat makes today's climb so like krabi!!!
alvin and eli.. found a very good dessert stall at canberra south estate.. not too ex .. dessert there..is super nice to have.. after a hot day climb at yishun.. with lot of choices for u to choose from..

and.. today's climb was great.. and erm erm..oooopss..(feeling guilty).. i finally to get to do some top-rope climbing in a vrey very very very long time.. haha.. had been leading .. or trying to lead.. for the past few times in yishun..
but after i top-rope the route.. i m able to bring the route back with me.. thinking of the red route.. green route.. in my head.. how shld i do the move.. match? pull? where shld i step?
but after the last few times..i led the various routes..i dun think i bring back any routes in my head.. jus the feeling of embracing my fear .. on the wall..
the guys.. also have the green route-red routes.. in their head.. but different routes.. haha..

kudos to zhengxin, junwei..!
zhengxin and junwei gave a very good 3 tries on the green route ..
both of them.. lacked a last move to complete the route!!
great determination!! haha....
with determination like that... they are going to complete it very very soon!!!

thanks junwei for being such a nice guy again!!!
can see he is very very tired already.. then he still climbed up the wall twice!.. to unclip the rope from the runners.. so that i can top the green route.. thanks alot..
if u r gg yishun.. always go with mr ong.. haha..

thanks eli.. for giving me great advice on how to go on abt to do the routes..
thanks wilson.. for sharing his valuable climbing experience with us.. if not,.. erm. zhijie.. might not be around.. haha.. touchwood!!
thanks zhengxin, alvin, kelly, zhijie, daniel for being such great climbing ppl.. for making climbing in yishun such an enjoyable experience...

cant wait for wed..

cheers cheers
Lips

climbing

Vertical climbing is the best! My palms are still sweating after thinking of all the routes team Junwei did this morning..we woke up at 8am, had bfast etc etc and reached yishun at about 9am and climbed till 2pm.

Felt some improvement and breakthrough of e fear barrier whilst trying e red tile route on centre overhang graded 7B (although wilson says it is overgraded and should only be a 7a). Nevertheless, made some progress on each of my 3 tries..which is the way things should be!! On final try, couldn't do the last move to the top despite a long rest on the rope before that and at various points... Forearms Pumped to the maxxx! Weak!! Really got to thank wilson for being such a patient belayer. Think he had time to fall asleep while i shook out...haha..anyway it's really too hard for me. Think it will take me a lot a lot a lot more power endurance training before I can red-point that route.

But it was super fun...there was the 'project' feeling which was remniscient of climbing in krabi. Next trip will be next week, Wednesday (9am) at Yishun Safra...there's always time for climbing even during a study week! see u there.

warm -down

As i was running today I realised something..

Maybe the reason why my forearms always feel so tired and pumped is because i don't warm down!! It's always the case that we suddenly decide to stop climbing and set-off hurridly for dinner cos we are so hungry. Plus we're straight out from some intense bouldering and so the pump in the forearms remain there pretty long in the night.

I don't really know much about how muscles work but i'm sure that's not good.. I remember running very conscientiously after training last year and so I could climb many days in a row without as many bad side effects. I think running after trg aids blood circulation and hence clears out all the remaining lactic in the forearms and upper body aiding muscle recovery.

Just some thoughts.

Thursday, November 10

the 'WEAKER' climber

Hey, this is just me apologizing to some senior gals earlier on. I kena chided for using the "C'mon, XYZ (a perceived weaker or inexperienced climber) can do it. So can you!" comment to motivate coz I was told it's insensitive to the person who's climbing (not so much of XYZ if XYZ's supposed to be really weaker heh, but I guess abit too), ESPECIALLY when the person ends up unable to do it. Sorry. But it's quite effective for guys I think! At least for most guys. Maybe coz guys got bigger ego haha...

When guys know that someone they perceive to be weaker OR more inexperienced flashed (or completed) a route, they become more confident and more motivated to flash (or complete) the route as well. This can be a very powerful psychological tool, IF it doesn't generate dysfunctional stress instead. Personally, if I fail to do so, I won't be stressed. I will just be VERY concerned as to why I cannot do so, and reflect deeply on my movement and technique for the route etc. Heh. I hope my original intentions are not misunderstood. YES, I know ultimately we should be intrinsically motivated... =P

Wednesday, November 9

missing climbing...~

i wanna climb i wanna climb i wanna climb i wanna climb i wanna climb i wanna climb i wanna climb


"i'm moving, i'm coming can you hear what I hear? it's calling you my dear out of reach.. i can hear it calling you i'm coming not drowning, swimming closer to you..."




nothing is impossible


Rich Simpson trained for Action Direct by doing campusboard laddering 1-4-7 with one finger and 1 -5- 9 with 2 fingers. (We tried laddering on monday in the NUS gym with all fingers also cannot do!!)

He also trained for Action Direct by doing one arm pullups(with one finger)

What is the morale of the story? Train hard, study hard because anything is possible!

I am v motivated now..

Tuesday, November 8

My PET:FISHY-FISHY!!!


Monday, November 7

lily

nice new route in the gym called lily on the sun moon wall, 6C+.

Who set it? wasnt jups...nice nice!

Notice the linear progression

Everyone notice the linear progression during exams period!

All the non climbing stuff comes out muahaha woops i think i am actually enjoying such diversions from the climbing posts! But i will not spur away any climbing posts too as they are equally enjoyable hoho..

It has been a great night for me yesterday as *cough* my old friend, Sir Alexander Chapman Ferguson was happy siahs. We talked over some english tea and he was happy. Since he happy, i was happy too (no i am not a gay). So i decided to hang around in the gym today!

I realised that the gym has a lot of history in it. There are many hidden routes and many hidden training tiles placed specifically for training certain parts of your muscular bods. Although I had spent hours staring at the tapes to figure certain secret routes, my shortsightedness was pointed out by a dino today. He introduced me to something that I was always training..but! This time, there are tiles placed to train what i wanted to train. I always thought that tiles are just placed for a route and even if we place tiles for training, some climbers may take it down or adjust it. No one would put up to any singular climber's personal fancy of training a certain part. But the NUS gym is full of surprises!

Therefore to people out there! If you see a dino hanging around the gym, do not be shy to ask him of any secret routes! They have a lot! Even some seniors do not know of the secret routes! At times, i feel like i am lara croft muahahahahahah

Regards,
me

cute baby....

i have no cute pet like eli's meejee nor a naughty biting cat like jups's coco. but... i have a cute nephew... =)

...

jerome!!>. so ke ai rite? kekeke....

**shall bring him to climbasia when he's older and train him to be like the lil boy (think he's called justin?) we saw at climbasia on saturday!!. hahaha...

man u ended chelsea's unbeaten run!!

hello hello..

yup yup. man united had ended chelsea's unbeaten run.. jus like in the previous season.. how they ended.. arsenal's unbeaten run..
this is how man u fight back when everyone tot they are down and out..after defeats by Boro and Lilile( not sure of the spelling, of the little club).... everyone tot man u is going to be in trouble..
no... they will never be out.. even without vital players of roy keane, ryan giggs, gary neville and gabriel heinze..they are able to beat the "mighty" chelsea, wiped the grins off the russian tycoon and jose mourinho.. what a fantastic feeling !!!!!!
haha.. and they will become stronger in time to come.. we will be welcoming back our baby-faced striker--- Solskjaer..in christmas!!
ten points mayb alot.. but there is still a long time to go...!!!!
watch out chelsea!! and others..

cheers
Lips

Saturday, November 5

the silly dog

following the onslaught of CoCo pictures..i will post a picture of...
Image hosted by Photobucket.com
my very silly dog, MeeJee!
last year he chased lips all over my house when the girls came over to dress up for sports ball.
he has also so far bitten 3 pple in my house leaving them with open wounds.
he loves it when alvin comes over cos he knows that its finally the time of the week for him to venture out into nature park and terrorise the neighbourhood. he pees at every pillar or tree he sees, marking his territory and sneaks up on little kids and barking thus dispeling all image of him being a nice and cute doggie.
still. i love him to bits!
ok this has nothing to do with climbing i know, im just posting cos im bored and coco looks like she could use some company =)
~eLi

Friday, November 4

climbing in yishun

Today at Yishun I realised what I am most afraid of!! Locking off in tenuous positions and clipping in...cos i am the 2nd slowest Clipper this side of the Orient. (Slowest being elisa)..Got to train clipping in skills already.

Also very afraid of cutting loose when up veyr high until OJW made me do this red route on the overhang wall..where I had to jump and cut loose on the overhang at panel 12.. (a first time for me..SHIOK!) and also launch for the ending tile from a very bad slopey hold. (also a first time for me..SHIOK!).

OJW was on fire and managed to red-point several routes. He is a mad man who loves to cut loose on the Overhang cos it makes him high. Elisa was of course technique queen. Alvin was a piece of shit and topped 0 routes. Hanping our Grand Master Senior needless to say, floated up the wall like a Zen Buddha. Me and OJW and elisa watched on in awe as he on sighted a 6C..(The white route on yishun flat wall 3)

Climbing vertical really pumps me out.. I can boulder much better than I can climb. Hanping says that it is perhaps because I know high power techniques needed during bouldering but have neglected to learn low power techniques ->hence tiring myself needlessly. Also, I use a wrong pace when climbing, not confident with contours and don't know how to find shake out points.. Do these apply to you too? Let's work on it togehter!

Anyway, the story of the day was when we DISCOVERED AN INDOOR BOULDERING GYM UNDERNEATH THE MEGA WALL that Yishun is building!!!!

You cannot belive how beautiful it is...lots of cute tiles and there are tiles all the way up to the 2nd level...on the ceiling and by the sides(instead of stairs). It's like a mini Gingerbread house with Tiles EVERYWHERE! There are also cute features on the ceiling and all around. Quite amazing..I bet it's going to be packed when it opens.

The Mega wall (facing the swimming pool) also has a crack in it to climb. Ie the type where you squeeze inside and can bridge across it. Looking forward to it's grand opening..

Coco NOW


This is Coco now ... Jups does not look like Coco ...


Pets look like their owners ... not the other way around ... :P


coco..! Posted by Picasa