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fotos!

Because eating after climbing is the best activity ever, here are some fotos of...

EAting after yishun!




Eating cake after trg!!

Long long time ago

bouldering on a wednesday

1815 hours
arrived late at the gym. i am late again argh! the gym is friggin' packed..i noticed that several people cut their hair too; namely alvin, mogilan and chin seng (not sure about his name..the dino who majored in material science one but i am sure now thanks to coach!). but the gym is packed..how to train siahs. did stretching especially with the fingers as i am expecting tutor kiat to bomb my fingers again. from experience, not stretching each fingers individually leads to fingers having a hard time to perform specific finger exercises like holding crimpy tiles with two fingers on top and the others pinching the side of the tile.

1910 hours
began warm-up boulder: going around the gym. friggin' packed. i took 4 minutes to figure out where to start as i do not want to disturb other people who were doing their rounds too. needless to say, i kena "kau peh-ed" as i eventually obtruct people doing their rounds. did a modified version of going around the gym with kiat's suggestions. meaning to use shittier tiles and lo and behold! flash pump sets in. suang ma..

1945 hours
bouldered bouldered bouldered. did exercises which focuses on lock offs, sloper strength and most importantly, my control in bouldering. many many people said i lack control in bouldering which is true. had great difficulties in providing the x-factor in control. until now i still do not know how to control my movements. although a conscious effect has been placed in my mind to control movements, i still find at times that i still throw myself when i do f***tub moves. my control only comes when i climb as i am afraid of grazing something important if i happen to fall badly during a lead climb.

2030 hours
my batch were fooling around. laughing hee hee haa haa as the seniors were eating outside. wanted to hee hee haa haa too but no voice. tried doing boulder problems on the secret manual by assad but i still fall badly. pissed off as i am still weak. perhaps it may be due to me not resting enough before training. but pissed la. cant grip things. cant even execute movements. tsah!!! "form over performance" rang in my mind again. shall not pia till i get injured.

2130 hours
did finger strength stuff that kiat commisioned me to do. shacked. while doing, i heard a familiar "yes! the whole gym is ours!"

2230 hours
chiong-ed the last shuttle bus back to pgp.

yes! i finally wrote an entry that is purely related to climbing! woohoo!

new endurance routes

Hi, I just added 2 Endurance Routes in the Gym

1. Re-elisa-tion (6C) - 32 moves, lizard wall
- yellow tape, red numbers

2. No-name (6A)-28 moves, Sun Moon wall
- red tape, silver numbers w/ stripes by the side(The first non JC-Climber Freshman to complete it can name it...)

One for seniors and one for juniors, do try them out.

ape index

jsut for fun, try measuring ur ape index.

Ape index = arm span / height

Generally, it gives u some advantage in climbing..

climbing etiquette is very impt..

gd climber + bad climbing etiquette = lousy climber.

climbing etiquette is indeed very important. esp so when you are not climbing in your homeground. it goes out to show what kind of climber you are as well.
EG : often, climbers will unintentionally rush to the wall to do a route or to start your training (when actually someone else is on the same wall doing a more difficult route or already dying after doing his 10 X 6A route), thus climbing etiqutte comes in here, you should come down the wall ... (and not the person who is trying the more difficult route or when he is just 2 tiles away from his last 6A route.)

bottom line : just pay more attention to your environment, esp the new climbers. and me...

just a note to our junior climbers, and a reminder to senior climbers like MYSELF! to pay attention to our own climbing etiquette in the gym, esp when not in homeground. =)

No Alvin ... I won't scold you :)

I think enough has been said about fear by zzz as reply to your previous post ... my take on things was and is still the same ... YOU decide how hard you want to push yourself ... and indirectly, how far you want to go in it, how long you want to keep climbing ... Anyone else can only give you advice and the gentle push that you might need occasionally ...

-------

and just for everyone's referance ... a little definition (not perfect, but I hope it answers some questions)

An ARC is a climbing specific endurance workout. Arcing consist of 20 - 40 minutes continuous climbing at an intensity level just below that at which you get a pump. The goal is to increase the amount and intensity of work that your forearm muscles can do using the aerobic energy system. This is essential to on-sight climbing and longer red points as well as generally moving up the grades.

ARC stands for Aerobic Restoration and Capiliarity a term Dale and Udo introduced to the English speaking world in Performance Rock Climbing. In their description of ARCing they emphasize the idea that climbing specific endurance training builds capiliary infrastructure in the muscles of the forearms.

Many people think endurance only helps with recovery or resting on holds. This is incorrect. Having a high level of climbing specific endurance increases the intensity and duration of work that you can do before a pump sets in AND it increases the speed with which you can recover from that pump. Many European climbers do very well in comps and on-sight such challenging routes outside, because they rely heavily upon having a high anaerobic threshold in their forearms. AKA climbing specific endurance.

I hope coach jups doesnt scold me over this entry..

I realised that climbing vertical takes a lot out of me. When leading hard routes at my limit, I have to be really psyched up before I do the climb. Or I have to really want to do the route. Otherwise, it just seems that fighting with the route, falling and getting scraped all over and getting pushed mentally to the limit just isn't worth it... Which is why today I was doing top rope on the flat wall. ^.^' ( i realise that I like routes on non-inclined surfaces better.. more balancy and technical)

Haiz. Like that how to improve...Next trip at SAFRA I will not be a wuss!!

For those of you who'd like to view Dan Osman's speed solo offline, you can download it at http://www.compfused.com/directlink/965/ (scroll down to the "right click and save as" tab).

my tutorial session just now was more shiong than training. my tutorial coach is more coach than our coach... humm... the lim brothers... hahaha... madness!

aching rx...

NUS Climbing has a new member! He is non other than ASSAD! *APPLAUSE*

If you guys don't know Assad, he is this incredibly strong climber (He does 8A routes) who is doing his pHD in NUS Physics dept now. Hence, he is still considered an NUS Climber..lol

Can i ask a qn regarding footwork?

When is it useful to step on footholds using the tip of your shoe (ie toes) and when is it useful to step using the sides of your shoe? (ie edging)

Thanks

let's all name our teams..

My team is called Team rocket! (from Pokemon. A bit childish but i dun care...) We'll be training in the gym on Thur from 4pm onwards.

Team Rocket
Alvin
Weimin
Liping
Mei fen
Liu Li
Ning Feng
Kang Wei

Adrian, you only contribute eye-candy for the guys, but what about the gals?!? PRESENTING...RAIN!!! This guy is supposedly the hottest Korean nowadays la. I COULDN'T believe it when I first saw his picture lah. How can it be? What are the gals thinking? And he's becoming more popular than Jay Chou?!?!? WHAT?!? Then, I watched a few episodes of "Full House" (Ai Qing Man Wu?). Then, I realized why... So for Song Hae Gyo fans, you all can watch also. Quite funny actually HAHAHA (sorry I just remembered some of the scenes). Uh, to make it relevant to this Climblog, train hard during your conditioning sessions okay so that you can obtain a physique like his (heard his damn good wahaha).

Haha.. Adrian.. I think it's just you getting the HEATS. Looks like need motivation factors around for you to get inspired and climb!

SP today was pretty goood! Should try to go back more. But something, or rather, someone reminded me of the vast difference in skill level between the novice cat climbers.

TO THE FRESHIE CLIMBERS
I got to talk to Eugene (according to liyin he is the best freshie in SP) before leaving and he showed me a few routes (stupid sit start; should be able to do one). Juniors really got to train more frequently and effectively if we AT LEAST want to be a competition to them. He's training nearly every weekday (according to him it is becoz he needs to catch up with the JC's) and he's good. I'm not suggesting everyone to force themselves to climb everyday but we've got to be aware that our competitors are improving too.

Just come down to the gym with someone else or just come! There will definitely be someone there to climb with! I need to work on dynamic moves and difficult starts!!! Grrrr...

Hot Mama

Ahahaha I bet you were shocked when you lay your eyes on her! I know it is rare to have someone pretty to pop up on a climbing blog so I am doing it! I think she blends well with the new format too.

Friday was a shiok boulder day. It was raining and the gym was cool and there is actually some signs of a breeze. There were not so many people also at the start of my training. Bouldered bouldered bouldered and did some easy routes by Rong Hui. OJW gave a nice route too. Requires some fingers to execute the moves and it has been some time since I did that kind of standard. I got the sharma feeling that it is do-able! But yayaya...I did not finish it haha. Soon lah soon..zx aso did not finish so I do not want to pai seh him. Cant help to think I am becoming more sensitive! Muahahahaha looks like engineering fac did not corrupt me that much!

Friday was fun too doing routes. Maybe *cough* it may be due a sudden spike in temperature. Lotsa farnee people doing farnee stuff. Muahahas..it was farnee la. Just laugh. Beh tahan (cannot tahan). I was working a route with a pro too. Fuh..she is strong and hot. I very long never so dedicated to work on a route with someone already.

Most importantly, my fingers felt hot. After training, there is a sensation when I clench my fist. It was shaking too..vibrating fingers. Not parkinsons vibration but those vibration attained when people in comics gain super powers and then they tend to vibrate with an aura. I am glad that I had decided to train on Friday as Thursday's training was not effective for me as I do not feel trained.

Muahahas.

HELLO!! It's the weekend again!! Woohoo and we're climbing at SP's gym tmrw. Ihope everyone is looking forward to it as much as I am.

Quite disconcertingly, I've had feedback that some of you are feeling demoralised due to lack of improvement and also some say that e routes are too hard cos you haven't topped any route in months. Here's my 2 cents worth!

Firstly, to all those injured personnel out there, I know that the desire to train is high but you must control yourself! take a break. Immerse yourself in something else - be it schoolwork, drugs, anime or porn. There's definitely more to life than climbing(subjective). Forcibly climbing with injury can only do you harm. For eg, you have an injured knee but you still climb and hence overcompensate by pulling more with your arms or kicking off with the wrong leg. That would cause you to engram wrong moves... Or worse, cause the injury to detioriate and then you need to take an even longer break. I know kiat possibly caused extra injury to his finger by climbing with an injured shoulder.. :(

Unfortunately, for most climbers, it takes a lot more discipline to take a break from climbing than to keep climbing...

Next up, improvement worries. If you're climbing 3 x a week and wondering why you're not improving as fast as your friend who's climbing 5x a week, the answer is obvious. He's climbing harder than you!! I know that to chase the seniors, in yr1-sem1 there was this memorable period when I climbed 13 days non-stop. Of cos it couldnt be sustained due to muscle fatigue. But you get the idea.. Climb harder! On non-trg days, there are lots of things to do too..uncompleted routes, all the different 30move endurance routes, add3, ARC etc.

Of course, time spent in the gym is not all-important. The way you climb is very important too. Of fundamental importance is that your body remembers all the moves that you do (engramming) and hence each time you do a route the right way, something positive is added to your muscle memory. In contrast, each time you do a route by powering through it, your muscles learn something negative. SO, it's not that important to complete all the routes given to you if it's just by muscling through..because you learn nothing! But each time you do a route, learn from others if you see a particularly efficient way of doing it.. When you are finally able to compelte a particularly hard route, the lesson is not over yet either! Try to repeat the route again twice in good form to complete the engramming process...

Thought this is quite funny.

"Most sports require only one ball." — Seen on a T-shirt with a picture of a climber.

An idea for climbing T-shirt/singlet?

Kev

How is training so far for u?

yup... how is training so far for everyone? do you feel yourself improving? do you feel it effective? do you feel strong? ...
well well, personally, my ans is :"i dunno." was toking to alv, eli n jups just now abt training... alv said he n weimin feel strong and tat's v gd...
i'm just thinking i havent felt strong for a long time. haha the 2 months break during nov n dec decreased my strength quite abit. till now, i still dunno whether i had regained back my strength anot... mayb i did but just, everyone is improvin too as well.. haha..

i actually hate the stage i am in now. - i have many many uncompleted routes. - sometimes, it's my guts problem. sometimes, it's my finger problem. sometimes, i dunno what's the problem. when everyone know what their strengths and weakness are, i am seriously not very sure of mine. and everytime i asked, ppl will ans me with this : ur guts problem. but.. i am sure tat's not my ONLY problem. and so wat if i know what are my other problems, what are the effective ways to improve on them would be a better qn to ask....

strength or technique.. both are crucial to climbing. i know my technique sucks.. esp footworks... haha.. how to train foot work? eli once told me to concentrate on the foothold u are stepping... tried it once... but often, when u are too conscious of what you are stepping, you tend to use more strength to hold urself?.. humm? or i dunno, i just got shack out coz i reali concentrate alot on my footholds.. until i keep using my strength to complete my climb round the gym... so i guess i did it the wrong way... haha..

strength. my left hand = useless. no power... even my right hand isnt as powerful as last time. i dunno if the pull training are working. but i am still the same hahaha... mayb the locking one will be more effective for me. but even so, i use more of my right arm to pull. but now, i am trying out jups 's method - this weight training for my left arm. hopefully it works...

and... i just wish for 2 new fingers now... i dont wanna rest again (even thou tat might be the best sol?? )... becoz i rested once.. and my fingers still didnt recover... =(