Ø Most focus on the outcome of the comp. Some worry about falling off even before hitting the wall. Some worry about other competitors being better than them, or worry about others being in the ‘wrong’ category. The truth is, those that focus on the process of getting to the top will most likely make it to the top
Pre-competition:
Ø Scout out the wall, before isolation. (Eg for chalk marks)
Ø Familiarize with the brand of the holds.
Ø Anticipate the conditions of the environment, e.g. heat, rain, crowd noise, smell of the air, fear, stress, etc.
Ø Comfort: get and bring anything that u need to be comfortable during isolation.
Observation:
Ø Give entire route a quick glance to make sure u know where it’s going.
Ø Read the route from bottom to top. You can’t go where your eyes have not seen. (Bring a bino if needed)
Ø Similarly, u can’t go where your mind have not went; picture yourself going from handhold to handhold, foothold to foothold. Exaggerate your hand and feet movements for better memory.
Ø Time yourself for the observation. Dun read too long or too quick.
Ø Spot clip-in positions, where you can rest well too.
Ø Predict hard sections and try to recognize familiar sequences.
Ø Spot rest points.
Ø Try recognizing familiar holds.
Ø Estimate distances between holds by gauging them using hands and panels
Ø Memorize the route. (Or draw them out)
Ø Focus and Concentrate. Don’t get distracted.
Isolation:
Ø Schedule warm up in view of order of climb.
Ø Manage the stress. Can be naps, games, listening to music, staring into blank space, yoga, staring at gals, etc. Find out what works for u.
Ø Calm down and remember to hydrate yourself.
Ø Do something to take your mind off the comp 1st, then as your turn approaches, think about the comp. Psyche yourself!!! Feel yourself climbin…feel the tiles…the heat of the day…smell of e chalk…hear e crowd cheering….u concentrating on the climb……
Ø Have pre-climb rituals.(for eg, mine’s going to the toilet, then putting shoes the slow and firm way, shaking out, chalking fingers then blowing on it, closing my eyes for a while, a deep breath…..in that particular sequence for all comps.)
During the Climb:
(Do not think of these during the climb but remind yourself during isolation)
Ø Don’t over grip.
Ø Keep arms straight when resting.
Ø Keep breathing consciously and loudly. Lots of climbers tend to hold their breath when it comes to strenuous part of the route. Your body needs oxygen for reliving lactic fatigue and recovery!
Ø Avoid tunnel vision. Be aware of surroundings….in other words, look around; resist locking off with one hand and “wiping” the wall with the other in search of holds.
Ø Don’t think so much once out on the climb. Be confident and remember procrastination will only bring you down.
Ø Lingering waste endurance. Climb at your normal pace, but remain cautious.
Ø Alternate shaking your arms raised and arms down for a bit more recovery, every bit of it counts for your on-sight.
Ø Don't forget to clip in, trailing leg muz not go over unclip runner (not too sure abt this rule)
Ø Schedule warm up in view of order of climb.
Ø Manage the stress. Can be naps, games, listening to music, staring into blank space, yoga, staring at gals, etc. Find out what works for u.
Ø Calm down and remember to hydrate yourself.
Ø Do something to take your mind off the comp 1st, then as your turn approaches, think about the comp. Psyche yourself!!! Feel yourself climbin…feel the tiles…the heat of the day…smell of e chalk…hear e crowd cheering….u concentrating on the climb……
Ø Have pre-climb rituals.(for eg, mine’s going to the toilet, then putting shoes the slow and firm way, shaking out, chalking fingers then blowing on it, closing my eyes for a while, a deep breath…..in that particular sequence for all comps.)
During the Climb:
(Do not think of these during the climb but remind yourself during isolation)
Ø Don’t over grip.
Ø Keep arms straight when resting.
Ø Keep breathing consciously and loudly. Lots of climbers tend to hold their breath when it comes to strenuous part of the route. Your body needs oxygen for reliving lactic fatigue and recovery!
Ø Avoid tunnel vision. Be aware of surroundings….in other words, look around; resist locking off with one hand and “wiping” the wall with the other in search of holds.
Ø Don’t think so much once out on the climb. Be confident and remember procrastination will only bring you down.
Ø Lingering waste endurance. Climb at your normal pace, but remain cautious.
Ø Alternate shaking your arms raised and arms down for a bit more recovery, every bit of it counts for your on-sight.
Ø Don't forget to clip in, trailing leg muz not go over unclip runner (not too sure abt this rule)
Conclusion:
That’s a huge chunk of information to digest, but I hope it helps. Everyone climbs differently, so what works for me may not work for you.
Adapted from THE JOURNEYMAN PROJECT.
