Wednesday, October 5

Taping

Why tape? There should only be 2 reasons for you to tape:

- Limit potentially damaging finger motions

- Remind yourself you have an injury (ie. Reminder to rehabilitate!)


If you're not sure if you're taping correctly. please ask me, or some of the seniors whom I've already spoken to about this topic

Lessons in Taping:

  1. Taping is NOT meant to make your finger stronger. It is NEITHER a replacement NOR supplement to the tendons and ligaments in your fingers. Correct taping is meant to RESTRICT your finger's bending ability (and hence further injury as you apply pressure, especially when attempting to crimp)

  2. Recovery is a process. And pain is an indicator. Climbers have a habit of ignoring or shutting out pain, hence the very common popped shoulders or knees after a range of seemingly impossible body-contorting moves on the wall. Pain is NOT a sign of weakness leaving the body (Uncle Ben might declare otherwise =P), so use it as an index of the damage that you are doing or should stay away from.

  3. In war there are pre-emptive strikes. In climbing unfortunately, there is NO SUCH THING as pre-emptive taping. You make the first mistake mentioned in Point 1. Attempting to strengthen only results in longer term weakening of those same tendons and ligaments as they grow dependant on external (and unecessary) support.

  4. Tape slackens over a short period of usage, so re-tape to ensure it's effectiveness.

  5. And for those psycho-maniacal climbers among us ... REST! Take the time your body needs (NOT how much you perceive you can break from climbing - which unfortunately amounts to nothing beyond a few days in most cases) to rehabilitate from injuries.

    Controlled Hard Training = Physiological Overload, Add a generous dose of REST = Strength, power, endurance and all the other good things you want out of training.

    Take away the REST? = Muscle degeneration

As with all other climbing injuries, be smart about it. Your injury's worst enemy is your ego. The same passion that drives us to climb, often drives us too hard, and hinders our recovery. Climb safe y'all ...

*These notes here are at best a guide. See a qualified medical specialist if need be. As Kelly can attest to, your auntie's favourite chinese sinseh might not always have the solution to your very unique climbing injuries. An experienced physiotherapist might often be what we as climbers need for treatment. More on this and another common climbing injury - SHOULDERS, coming soon ...