Friday, October 7

OF LEGS AND FEET

Footwork is always a problem, period. Sometimes I think the whole problem with footwork is that it's about efficiency -- footwork shouldn't hinder you, it should always set you up for the next move. The trick to make it efficient is to max the leverage you get with each move (i.e.: reach further without changing foot) and max the stability of each position (i.e.: controlled movement so that you don't waste strength on each position).

Now the biggest problem I have is trying to make sense of it on long routes...my upper and lower body seem to be disjointed especially on long climbs. Sheesh... working on it... i've been recommended to practice on vertical climbs. Alternatinv between bouldering and vertical climbing seem to allow your brain some time to "defrag" and get in tuned with the way you wanna climb.

Was also thinking about footwork and considering some styles that I've seen people climb with. Hope you guys don't mind me mentioning them here... Maybe can think about it and see if there really is something that you can work on.

1) Some junior team members I have seen seem to have a rather dynamic style of climbing. Nothing wrong with that, but as I mentioned ot Kaleb once -- dynamic climbing doesn't mean doing a whole lot of movement and swinging. The main difference between dynamic climbing and any-how-climbing is CONTROL. With sufficient control, you can be static or dynamic and you will still be able to complete routes.

2) For strong (roar) people who like to cut their legs loose from the wall, this one's for you. There's a BEEEEEEGGGG difference between cutting loose to gain momentum and loosing control. YES. Consider this: cut loose only if your feet are unecessary for the movement -- that's being efficient. Cutting loose cos your feet can't stick -- that's gonna make your movement more difficult cos you're less stable. Cutting loose cos you need to -- that helps to make a move, that's tricky cos you need to quickly regain your placement once the move is made. Think carefully ah... got difference one...

Sharma-style has its advantages, but only if you know how to use it. Remember that Sharma has really powerful finger strength and every-single-sticky-thing-strength.


JKLM