Monday, July 31

krabi

greetings from krabi!!

Me, weimin and liu li sitting in an internet cafe now bidding for modules whilst the rest were smarter and had already done their advance biddings and planning. The internet cafe here is really expensive. :(

Weimin, jiasheng and I just did quarks 7b today after a day spent resting cos of the terrible rain. liu li is close and can complete it on top rope. The forced rest day could be a blessing in disguise?

Me and jiasheng also did orange tears 7A and Lion King 6C+ on our first day. We are all hoping to do deep water soloing soon. See u guys in 2 weeks!

Wednesday, July 26

work and climbing

It's my first time working during the holidays and after 3 mths, i'm really glad it's over.

1. Comparingg work and school
Unparalleled freedom and time vs money and ambition. They're two totally seperate currencies but im a lazy bum so i'll much prefer my time thank you. Plus at work you have a boss but in school you're your own boss!

2. Work and climbing.
Some people say that they have no time to climb but i think that's not true. There is always time to climb and it is just how well you integrate it into your timetable - and what you are willing to sacrifice for it.

Despite saying that, i still have to admit that work does not correlate well with climbing at all :(. The problem is, work makes u tired and being tired = not feeling like climbing.

3. Work and traffic
It sucks that 99% of the working population go to work(and home) at the same time. Singapore roads get really crowded during the peak hour and its really shitty taking twice the normal travelling time...when you most can't afford it.

Anyway to cap off a really tiring 3mths is a really shiok 2 week krabi trip! I wonder how the junior team is faring in krabi, no news from them..

Friday, July 21

Kudos to Post-event report

hello hello..
since the blog is getting abit bare..
let a newly crowned dino put something up..

kudos to the one who did the post-event report on Boulderactive 2006..
it was really very well-done..
great pictures and great write-up.. except there is a spelling error in one climber's name. ahem. haha.. otherwise. it is realli realli very NICE..
it jus clearly shows BOULDERactive 2006 is the biggest bouldering event of the YEAR!
yeah!!! hurray!!!

feelings of a newly-crowned dino..(which kelly had kindly reminded me today. i m no longer in the team)
LOST!
lots of feelings of LOST!
suddenly.. u dunno wat u want out of ur life.. and start a search of wat u realli want..
and when u find it.. most prob..u discover that.. it has nothing to do with wat u study..
so to those who are still studying ..
cherish all the time u have in school..
play, climb to the max. but still muz somehow study a' lil..

and to those in krabi and those gg soon..
have lots of fun!! bring back lots of stories.. of joy, peace and laughter..
missing and will miss u guys loads..
take great care of urselves.. !!!

and krabi.. i will back soon! hopefully stronger..

cheers
lips

Sunday, July 16

Newly-crowned Dinos!

And THIS...
Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
marks our official cross-over into Dino-hood!
(although for Jups its more like renewal of Dino membership..haha)
many thanks once again to the juniors for the wonderful efforts put into our farewell presents and dinner! Have fun in Krabi!
~eLi

Monday, July 10

Gym cleanup

I would like to thank the new ex-co for organising the gym-cleanup, you guys did a great job! Of course this couldnt be done without all the helpers, glad that so many turned up.

It was very fast, efficient and thorough!

Some things to take note of now that the gym is clean, of course it's up to everyone to follow or not just some of my thoughts:
1. Don't use loose chalk, always use a chalk ball
2. Don't carry chalk bag when doing short boulder problems, when you fall, there's going to be a big PUFFF
3. Don't climb barefoot, going to make all the tiles dirty and moist

anything anyone else can think of?

Friday, July 7

camp 5 blog post

NTU's strongest climber(pan jiasheng) blogs about the NUS camp5 trip.

LAN

Anyone plays lan?

DOTA, starcraft, CS enthusiasts?
Want to have a mega LAN outing anytime soon? Everyone invited, team weng fai, dinos, noobs etc...

Can play at selegie or ginza wherever la... How about next fri (14 July)? heeheeee

Sunday, July 2

SPORTS CAMP

Heya guys,

Sports Camp will be happening from 3rd July (Monday) onwards. It's a time when freshmen from the university get together for 4 days of solid sporting fun. This includes a demo and tryout sessoin on Tuesday 4th July for all land and indoor sports -- that includes us. This is an excellent time for us to showcase our talents to these freshies and get their attention for the sport, from promoting level 1 courses to promoting the IVP team. We'll just need to set up ropes and harnesses for the newbies to try out the sport, and also plan a stylo bouldering route that we can 'wow' the girls with ; )

We'll need helpers (belayers) and demonstrators (handsome and daring climbers *ahem*) for this demo from 8 to 1 pm. I believe that lunch will be provided too.

Capts and Mgrs, could you help rally the team members for this event? I understand that it's on rather short notice, but I think there was some lapse in the earlier communications efforts.


Tuesday, June 27

Impt Announcement

Disgusted at the layers and layers of visible dust on the floor? Tired of the same old routes? sick of slipping off moist tiles?

It's time for a Gym cleanup !

8 July Saturday
- hope to see lots and lots of people there to help out.. If you're free perhaps you could add ur name in the comments page? Hope lots of dinos/regulars come and help out too, especially to put up the tiles :)

9am - Take down tiles and Cleaning Activities
1pm - Put up tiles

Monday, June 26

yishun safra free!!

Sat and Sun climbing at Bouldering +15m + 25m climbing wall was free = super duper shiok!!!

Some ppl were v cheapskate and went there for both days...muahahhaha

Wednesday, June 21

tampin trip

Some fotos of last week's trip courtesy of ryan koh



Sun juz came out after the rain


nus' strongest climber!


nus'2nd strongest climber!


NUS most cmi climber with not enough finger skin. (on a wicked crimp)


The man of many girl's dreams (and some guys too)


The hotel which was right beside china town. RM 88 a day for a double room.


SMU's pride


Driver of SCA8832Y(i think) - in cantonese = business success?


Coach going the wrong way?


Nice and shady.


nicest route of the trip. Nice good slopey gaston


grp foto. Grp = Team weng fai + Others


The ride up


Milk

Thursday, June 15

"Pro" Tip

First off, sorrie san! for not going to CA on today (thurs) really drained at work. BUT. Although wasnt climbing, i was doing paper research on what and how we can improve climbing! And yes i'm pleased to say i made a breakthrough. HAHA! (although i think some would disagree, especially san)

OK! Here comes the "Pro" Tip (drum rooolll!). That is..... EAT MORE CHOCOLATE!

Let me explain. The supporting evidence was derieved from the free hanger that was found on the MRT train carriage rail, titled "Get Your Dose of Happiness", kindly sponsored b
y Cadbury. On that small piece of plastic, it expounded the Goodness of Chocolate

Eat Chocolate for Better Health
Cocoa, the base compound of chocolate contains significant amounts of antioxidants. These antioxidants reduce the risk of heart disease.

Chocolate is Nutritious
Chocolate has nutritional value containing a range of nutrients necessary for good health. It contains Calcium, Iron, Niacin, Thiamine, Zinc, Carbohydrate, Vitamin A and Riboflavin (seriously didnt all these stuff before). If you're looking to increase your Calcium intake, consider adding milk chocolate to your diet. (haha... really... advertisers these days...)

Get Happy with Chocolate

Scientific research tells us that eating chocolate triggers the release of Endorphines, natural opiates in the brain known to reduce pain and enhance one's mood and sense of pleasure
.

Thus, there really is nothing better than chocolate to be the soul food for climbers. You will forget all ur finger pain, feel happier climbing (no more wall banging) and greater satisfaction when you complete a route! Plus all that other health benefits! (though they seem to be pushing it a little...) To top it all, it tastes heavenly...... What more can one ask for... So people, start eating more chocolate (that includes u sandra).



Wednesday, June 14

Vanity Fair

A question of taste, perhaps?

What's your climbing style? What are your strengths and weaknesses? How do you wish to climb? Do you climb to the best of your strenghts, or do you simply try to emulate the greatness of other climbers whose very shadow seem to suggest unfulfilled potential?

Sometimes I think climbing can be the most elaborate vanity fair amongst the extreme sports within our reach. It seems as if we climb to be beautiful sometimes. If you believed that climbing is more than a sport -- it's a way of life, then you'd easily grasp this point. Just as we have struggled to come to terms with our cosmetic alter-egos, we struggle to correct our climbing styles and pursuits to emulate the superstars in our hearts.

But that is not to say that I object to having role models. Take my brother for example, his climbing style and approach to this intricate sport is what I would place as a role model -- nimbleness, grace over grunt, playfulness over power, daring, demeanour and calm flow from his various climbing styles. He probably doesn't think this much of his climbing, but I observe them in his movement, his pacing, his planning; his climbing. No Sharms, Lamas, Loskots, Rouling or Graham for me; just my good ol' brother.

Perhaps what strikes me most of his climbing is the resounding belief that he climbs HIS WAY. Not mine, not like somebody, but very much like himself. He probably started out looking up towards someone for guidance and direction as to how he should be climbing too. Heck, I think some people may even agree that he's got bits of Philip's climbing style embedded in his own.

What I sense in his climbing is a sort of deep seated acceptance of his form. No excuses for not being able to reach this or that, not being strong enough, not being well coordinated etc. Sometimes I think that there's a fevernt belief in him that there's always another (more technical) way around the problem.

Before I loose my point in this entry and start sounding like I've got some brokeback thing going on with my brother, I just feel that sometimes we seem to confuse and complicate our pursuit for competition performance with the true beauty of climbing. For climbers, it's always you, your equipment and the rock; no obsession with power, strength, crimpers, slopers etc... There's no gym and no competition -- just the route and the movement. It's something like returning to the core of the sport, the fundamental power of your body's spirit.

Perhaps Uncle Ben was right when he once mentioned this to me: "why do I climb?", with reference to a route he did in Thailand.

"To be beautiful," was his reply.


JKLM

Friday, June 9

new appt holders


Hi guys, it's that time of the year when the new exco takes over..so for those of you whom don't know yet, we proudly present to you exco for AY2006/2007!!

Captain: Ning Feng



Vice Captain: Mei Fen


Guy Manager : Liu Li


Girl Manager: Sandra

Monday, June 5

Thoughts on Thailand

Back from my second trip to Thailand, I'd just like to share some thoughts on climbing there.

  1. General trip timings: Avoid the months of May and before -- it's likely to still be within the rainy season. Locals say that the rainy seasons usually last till about between mid to late May. Rainy season is marked by waves of heavy rain or stormy weather starting at night and sometimes stretching into the next day. During these times, you'll get to see perculiar local habits like keeping all activities to a minimal and staying indoors. The most activity we've seen at times like these was our neighbour smoking weed and other people at the local restaurants channel-surfing. June and July are still during the tourist low seasons, so prices shouldn't get jacked up too high. Nevertheless, your cheapest sources of food and drinks will still be from Ao Nang.
  2. Guidebooks: Get the one that Climb Asia carries -- Rock Climbing in Thailand. It's got the best picture-to-crag guide you can get your hands on. The sketches are more accurate than the ones in King Climbers. You'd do well to get as many guidebooks as there are climbing parties. Basically you don't want to have 3 groups of climbers sharing one book. And of course, you wanna have a spare one in case it gets wet or dirty too.
  3. Equipment: Depending on where you climb, watch your equipment. Tonsai has got lots of sand and Railay has got lots of dust. You might wanna give it a brush at the end of your day and make sure that the ropes don't get soiled while you're climbing. Bring enough clips and ropes for all climbers cos renting is gonna cost a bit. Nevertheless, you could rent from places like Wee's Climbing School at Tonsai, near to the Banyan Tree Resort (look for Elke, an english-speaking german lady who runs the school).
  4. Good Climbs: Hardest send of the day were Tidal Wave (7B+) by Jups. No hardest red-point yet, but we were close to it on Tiger Queen (7B?). For boulders and people who have been packing it in at the Gym, Tonsai wall is great for short and intense climbs. The wall's steep and consistent overhang makes for almost long boulder problems, with single or multiple cruxes depending on your climbing style and strength. Fire wall has got some nice long routes too. A must try there is Groove Tube (6A), which packs an interesting segment where you'd need to chimney your way up an almost completely closed rock tunnel -- great fun.

    We've found a bouldering cave further down the road from fire wall (if you're coming over from the direction of Dream Valley Resort, that is). It's almost 12m long and packs several nice and sustained lines, from a flat wall to a wicked long roof to an inclined wall. Plenty of lines available at the cave, from juggy routes and obvious holds to slopy surfaces and even crimps on the roof -- worth a trip. Dum's Kitchen has got several nice routes too, like By Way of Deception (7A) which packs a tricky start and a sustained finish. Do spend more time on the Tonsai and neighbouring walls to really enjoy the more technical and harder routes. These are the lines that are really beautiful and worth the trip. However, try not to go running into the hard grades without adequate warmup and some easy foundations first. Most of th 6Cs in the area are still worth a go, like Vikings in Heat and Cowabungalow. They're nice routes to get you familiar with the rock and adequately warmed up.
  5. Relaxation: I think you could find some of the longer term residents smoking weed around; they're usually quite friendly and willing to share. There's a book cafe along the inner coastal road in Tonsai. Great food at Andaman Resort and generous helpings at Dream Valley Resort. Freedom Bar is still a great hangout anytime of day. Oh, and bring along the mahjong set -- it makes a great before-bed game for the restless souls.

JKLM



Sunday, June 4

Photos

An orgy of photos first ... to stir your imaginations ... and whet your appetites for the impending exodus to the holy-ground for regional climbing ...
Nuts and bolts to follow soon ... need to climb some ... and organise notes some more ...


Friday, June 2

KRABI - TONSAI

----> DREAM valley!!

----> The Food!!

---> The CLimbS!

Thursday, June 1

quote of the day (not by me)

Dropping knee is for girls, real men campus!!

What TYPE



Monday, May 29

PuMpFeSt 2006

pardon the intrusion commentary from a friendly dino: Pumpfest came and went, a 3-day affair which i thought was less loud, less smashing and less exciting than Boulderactive. but then, i'm NUS-loyal so i'm biased. =p

can't comment on the guys' climbs cos in general i think they are just monsters. =D

don't know if i'll kena whacked for saying this, but after watching the TJC-ian and TPJC-ian female climbers, i think NUS female climbers need to train up their dynamic power! i think locking strength + dynamic strength will make all of NUS gals very strong climbers!

but i also saw lots of NUS spirit and support throughout the competition. =D hope the passion continues to burn and keep climbing!


the giant ones!

thanks to triple-tricep man mr. ong's photo-taking, the usually petite ones ended looking like towering giants. =D