ZHENG GU SHUI! (available at any Chinese medical shop)
Although my fingers are very screwed, I am still able to push hard with it the past few years. You could follow my personal regime after every climbing session:
1) Bathe in cold water; Cools down overall body temp to reduce frequency of blood flow to forearms and fingers which would slow down inflammation.
2) Apply lots of ZGS on the fingers experiencing pain. Adriel applies it and bandages his fingers to keep it in. But if you're bandaging it, don't bandage for >20hrs because ZGS is a dehydrant and your skin will flake off. After applying, don't wash your hands for at least 1 - 2hrs otherwise it'll be wasted.
3) 1000mg Fish Oil - Helps with anti inflammation
4) I learnt this from Crimp Maestro Winfred: Ice with bowl / tupperware with 7 ice cubes. Soak hand in it continuously for about 2 - 3min. It should be numb but not biting pain. Change hand. Repeat 2 -3 sets.
5) Before sleeping, apply ZGS again. And don't rub your eyes in the middle of your sleep!
6) Massage fingers regularly with thumb on the top of the swollen joint, and massage down towards top side of palm. You want to bring blood away from the fingers which is carrying the waste materials.
7) Next part depends on what's wrong with your fingers:
i) Inflammation - Spam Fish Oil, Ice treatment. ZGS good but optional
ii) Weird dull pain in joints - Just spam ZGS. At least twice a day. And do the massage
Healthy fingers are the most important when breaking boundaries in late game! Aaron Tan, Winfred, Dennis, Hazlee, Ron, Haroz are examples of people who have perfectly healthy fingers. So there's a strong correlation seen here!
