Wednesday, July 23

Setting endurance routes

Ok so since the gym tiles are going to be reshuffled, there are going to be new endurance routes sprouting up all around in the few weeks after that. Here's some little things that I have learnt over the years about setting up endurance routes - how some routes fail (and get lots of complaints) but some routes get lots of traffic:

Logistics wise:
1a. It may seem simple but differentiate the tapes used for marking. Yellow tape with numbers written in black vs yellow tape with numbers written in blue (even red) are difficult to tell apart

1b. Try to set a range of difficulties on each wall, not all easy (or hard)

1c. Route setters (and courteous gym users) shld try their best to maintain the tape markings. e.g. if tape falls off, please replace it.

Route Setting proper:
2a. Holds need not be spread out very far from each other but they should make the climber move his feet (at least). Sometimes, because of very complex small patterns (e.g. constantly changing direction), the climber can make up to 4-6 moves without shifting the legs at all! That's cool for natural climbing, but usually we use these routes for endurance training so that makes it less useful.

2b. Endurance climbing is all about setting certain rules and following them (since we are climbing round and round quite pointlessly). But try not to make the climber feel too stupid, e.g. feel like it is easier to skip certain tiles in the sequence cos they are contrived small movements. So, each tile should help you get to the next tile..

2b. Try to make it sustained and of constant difficulty. e.g. long easy portions then sudden crux is not so nice.

2c. Playing Add3 and then using it to make a route usually results in constantly changing styles and difficulties, also not so nice.

2d. Jump on the route to test it out to see if the moves are suitable, not too awkward.

These are just some thoughts, feel free to disagree and add more/comment!