The best way to improve this skill is to do more routes set by ppl with different climbing styles. For eg. we may do well in boulderactive(organised by NUS) but flop in competitions organised by SP because of vastly differing styles. NUS climbers generally suck at dynos :)
Don't always wait to see ppl attempt the route first before you start. Try the route at least once without seeing others climb it first. Lack of confidence will inhibit your improvement! (of cos overconfidence too)
Another good way is to start setting routes for others to do. When planning routes, we generally plan it such that certain techniques are forced out. This will get you thinking consciously of what kind of tile and foothold placement require what kind of moves.
These are long term tips. Short term?
1) Look at the general layout of the tiles quickly and plan out Roughly how you want to do the route. eg. hand sequence to minimise unnecessary hand matching on the wall(waste energy) shouldn't have such situations when u suddenly realise that argh! wrong hand!!and then desperately try to match on a small crimper or climb backwards.
2) Plan out exactly how you want to do the route. eg. Where to place your foot at each particular moment and visualise yourself doing the entire route.
3) Plan out alternate sequence for crux portions which you are not particularly confident of.
4) Look out for the best way to hold each tile. eg. a slightly deeper groove on the right side? Tiles meant specifically to side pull?
5) look out for tiles off to the side which ppl always miss during competitions.
