im very sad!!! havent had as much time to train lately and i can feel myself getting weak already! have to train again! anyhow, i think what keeps us climbing is the complexity of the whole sport, u cant just focus on strength alone, or techniques alone, and its a very precise combination of both in order to execute a climb, thats y there're no limits and we always feel like theres so much more room for improvement. im not very sure what our girls lack..or maybe we lack that knowledge of a perfect combo of just that right amt of strength and technique for each route, like maybe route A requires 60% strength 40% technique while route B takes like 20%strength and 40% technique, and all we can do is to keep trying to figure out what it takes to complete that route, coupled with things like finger strength..body positioning..tension...theres so much to look into! you gotta know ur own body really well and most importantly what works for you and what doesnt, for me id rather complete a route with efficiency and grace than power through, even if maybe i have sufficient strength to complete it without any techniques whatsoever, but eventually its knowing that hey i did that route easily cos i used a perfect combination of all the factors rather than i did that route easily simply cos i have strength. and exploring that ideal way of doing that route will prove very rewarding. i used to think that strength is everything also, but technique is everything as well, ultimately u cant seperate them cos theyre non exclusive. although it is very very true that having alot of strength will make climbing so much easier and there are simply certain techniques that require a certain amt of strength to execute it. but i guess we ll just have to work on gaining that strength gradually. so since gaining strength requires times, all we got to focus on now is how to fully maximise the potential strength you already have - explore as much technique you do with your current strength now and ENGRAM them. make awkward movements natural to you, do ARC backwards. dont despair and work with what you have to the fullest! so another person may be able to do more pullups or campus more but so what, you can beat them with the number of techniques u have engrammed inside you and down the road i think thats going to help alot more!
on the downside, it is sad but true that once you ve reached a certain level like open standard or something, the differentiation between climbers really boils down to height or natural talent or other diff to change factors etc. but i guess for now we are still very young climbers so dont ahve to worry about that!!!
okay by now i think half of u reading are falling asleep already..=) but i have more to say!!
over the past few months ive had some revelations. the power to weight ratio theory is really really damn good! for awhile. heh. lost abit of weight and u discover that your moves are so much easier to execute cos ure no longer carrying that same amt of weight u had before, and that instant makes u feel really high. i had so much power! i jumped easier, went for tiles easier, pulled up easier. BUT that feeling lasted only for awhile cos eventually your body WILL GET USED to that new weight and then ull feel weak again (like me now). so focus on improvement on other aspects as well cos this is a perfect example that strength produces lesser possibilities than the combination effect of all factors does.
next, core strength. i think maybe thats y our backs have been hurting cos you're beginning to feel the requirement of body tension around your mid section when u do routes. for me, when i gotta deadpoint or do statically dynamic moves, i realise that keeping ur midsection tight does help, cos it controls the swing u may have after that and also keeps u closer to the wall, hence reducing the need to grip tighter or use more arm strength, etc.
next, FOOTWORK! for awhile alvin and i had a mantra that is to STEP HARDER and we discovered that if u do it consciously, it really helps! not only harder, but bemore precise in your feet movements, treat ur footholds as importantly as u treat your handholds. thats y u realise that everytime u do like the endurance routes at CA for the first time, its always damn difficult. but after doing ti for a few times, ull breeze through cos u know exactly where to step already. so footwork must not be neglected.
okay i actually have alot more to say but my laptop batt dying already. and actually what i said above may not be all correct also la im no expert man. but im just sharing what works for me..and im still exploring just like all of us are, so we just gotta help each other discover what works for each of us ya? climbers are different just like all climbing routes are, so just find out what works for your body and ur style. and we re finally getting a coach! exciting! =)
eLi