Sunday, June 28
George du Tarn
This place is extraodinary! Guess who i met on first day of climbing:
Thanks to Jay for this super photo :)
Wednesday, June 24
FOOD HUNT!=)
FOOD HUNT UPDATE!
time: 10pm Aljunied MRT
Venue: Geylang area
people confirmed attending:
jia hua
felicia
jansen
shaoting
regina
kenneth
bertrand
vincent
jia wei
drivers:
jia hua (stay in sengkang)
felicia (central- towards NEL line)
Kenneth ( east)
do contact the drivers if u need a lift home, we will work out who drops who off!!=)
we need more drivers if any of you can=)
and more people to join in!!=)
to confirm your attendance, pls sms Jia HUA at 92975450!we need to know whos coming to meet at the mrt=)
time: 10pm Aljunied MRT
Venue: Geylang area
people confirmed attending:
jia hua
felicia
jansen
shaoting
regina
kenneth
bertrand
vincent
jia wei
drivers:
jia hua (stay in sengkang)
felicia (central- towards NEL line)
Kenneth ( east)
do contact the drivers if u need a lift home, we will work out who drops who off!!=)
we need more drivers if any of you can=)
and more people to join in!!=)
to confirm your attendance, pls sms Jia HUA at 92975450!we need to know whos coming to meet at the mrt=)
Monday, June 22
Beta for Krabi - The perspective of a poor hard climber residing in Tonsai
Hello hello after coming back from Krabi a blacker dude than before, I thought it would be helpful to give some beta for Krabi :) It's gonna be long so feel free to ignore it if it won't be applicable.
Currency exchange:
1SGD to approx. 23 Baht. Anything below 23 is asking to be tokked. I changed at Suntec's money changer at 23.2.
Getting there:
We took the SG - Phuket - Ao Nang - Tonsai route which will be different from the route everyone will be taking so I can't really help much :\
Drop at Ao Nang PIER to buy the tickets for the Longtail boat. All the boats now depart from here. The boats will take only a minimum of 8. Fewer than 8 you've got to either cover the cost for the empty spaces or take with other people. There seems to be more people wanting to go to Tonsai in the mornings around 10. At night it's pretty hard to find people to take together. A friend waited from 5 - 7pm when he came by himself and ended up taking the next morning. Tix cost 100 baht per person (buggers just cant stop raising the prices)
Accoms:
As a poor dude with little interest in Railay (due to prices and climbs), I stayed at Tonsai area for all 3 trips so I'm not sure about the rates for accoms at Railay. There's an imba 5 star resort that you might wanna stay if you own Temasek Holdings. If considering Tonsai for stay, I can give my opinions on some accoms that I stayed in.
Dream valley - By far my fav :) Stayed here for this trip w/o hotwater and aircon. The place is very clean and comfy. Although it's pretty chui to bathe in cold water esp on a rainy day but it's pretty cheap at 100B / night / person for a 3 man room. They also offer more atas rooms with aircon hot water.
Pasook - Concrete houses. Concrete flooring unpainted brick walls so the rooms is kindna gloomy. Rooms are partitioned by a wall with a gap at the top so can hear your neighbours making out or lao sai in the next room. Forgot the prices and not sure if they offer more atas rooms. The perks are that they offer GREAT food and the staff nice and friendly :) Do your laundry here! Most trusted. Banyan Tree laundry adds a wonderful shade of yellow to clothes. Great for Doris!
Andaman Nature - Currently closed for renovation. But if they're open, screw it. The wooden ones on stilts are totally chui. Manual flush system. Great drainage for the sink leading to your feet.
Tonsai Bay resort - Closest to the beach. Friend stayed here for 350 - 400 baht / room for 2. But the room is huge. Good flooring and pretty comfy with alot of space.
Climbs (muahaha):
I rarely climb at Railay but can share some of my limited knowledge on this area.
Easy climbing: Diamond Caves. The haven of 6's. Hardest is only a 6b+ i think. about 20 routes there. The concrete path is quite steep. After reaching the crag you start to wonder if the path is a 5a+. Climbs pretty much similar to each other.
Muay Thai 6b+ - Balls route. Quite fun. Perhaps a good project for girls.
Chicken Head 6c+ - Crux at first - second clip. Abit hard don't get rope burn. Jansen tried it and it looked really gd from a belayer's pt of view.
Short and Savage (Short and Stupid) 6b+ - 3 clip route. Damn easy if you got beta. Cheap thrill. Girls can spank this too. Opp. this route is another 3 clip route. Same grade but a bit harder and nicer.
Orientales (I think that's the name and grade) 6a+ - A very popular route. Good for sight seeing and build up of guts. There's another 30m 6 sth route near it which is gd and easy.
Quarkz - Never done it but seems to be the few reasons to visit Railay. Short and crimpy. 7b i think. Can check out Alvin spank this route on youtube :)
Sightseeing: Thaiwand Wall! Beautiful scenery at the top of any climb! Can see shades of blue and green of the ocean and overlook Tonsai and Railay. Trekking quite tiring and the paths is very dodgy and scary at certain parts.
Tonsai
Good climbing for girls: Tyrolean Walls offer VERY good technical climbing. Placebo 6c, Missing Snow 6b+, Loisl 6c+ (a bit hard), Lars and Lars 7a (maybe only 6c+). Placebo and MS are good projects for girls (not inc. of imba monstaaas aka Doris). Done all of them and must say I like them all.
Lion King 6c+ - Gd and very different climb. Be careful of falling.
Ok the grades look intimidating but there isn't much below this grade. And those that are below it along Tonsai beach are mostly pretty lame and overinflated. There's a sick 6b+ which involves holding monster jugs and scrambling into a cave and with your zaiest ex downturned Sportiva rock shoes walk along the cave to the anchor. Ain't that just sick? The Schlingels are still ok and not bad, I think.
Hard climbing: Won't mention the usual. The list on SCA is comprehensive and definitely recommended.
Sightseeing: Fire Wall :) just trek towards Melting Wall or Shadow Wall (cant remember which. Just walk along the path towards burnt offerings.) Can have a gd view of the whole of Tonsai.
Food (Tonsai):
Muesli with fruits and milk 40B - Beside freedom bar.
Muesli with yoghurt and alot of fruits 50B - Road side stall near pancake store
Banana Pancakes! 30B - Near minimart
Currys ask Jansen the spicy connoisseur
Fried rice - Mix and match the permutations and combinations of meat and restaurant.
Yup that's all I've got :) Pls spam suntan lotion and join the league of ah nehs.
Currency exchange:
1SGD to approx. 23 Baht. Anything below 23 is asking to be tokked. I changed at Suntec's money changer at 23.2.
Getting there:
We took the SG - Phuket - Ao Nang - Tonsai route which will be different from the route everyone will be taking so I can't really help much :\
Drop at Ao Nang PIER to buy the tickets for the Longtail boat. All the boats now depart from here. The boats will take only a minimum of 8. Fewer than 8 you've got to either cover the cost for the empty spaces or take with other people. There seems to be more people wanting to go to Tonsai in the mornings around 10. At night it's pretty hard to find people to take together. A friend waited from 5 - 7pm when he came by himself and ended up taking the next morning. Tix cost 100 baht per person (buggers just cant stop raising the prices)
Accoms:
As a poor dude with little interest in Railay (due to prices and climbs), I stayed at Tonsai area for all 3 trips so I'm not sure about the rates for accoms at Railay. There's an imba 5 star resort that you might wanna stay if you own Temasek Holdings. If considering Tonsai for stay, I can give my opinions on some accoms that I stayed in.
Dream valley - By far my fav :) Stayed here for this trip w/o hotwater and aircon. The place is very clean and comfy. Although it's pretty chui to bathe in cold water esp on a rainy day but it's pretty cheap at 100B / night / person for a 3 man room. They also offer more atas rooms with aircon hot water.
Pasook - Concrete houses. Concrete flooring unpainted brick walls so the rooms is kindna gloomy. Rooms are partitioned by a wall with a gap at the top so can hear your neighbours making out or lao sai in the next room. Forgot the prices and not sure if they offer more atas rooms. The perks are that they offer GREAT food and the staff nice and friendly :) Do your laundry here! Most trusted. Banyan Tree laundry adds a wonderful shade of yellow to clothes. Great for Doris!
Andaman Nature - Currently closed for renovation. But if they're open, screw it. The wooden ones on stilts are totally chui. Manual flush system. Great drainage for the sink leading to your feet.
Tonsai Bay resort - Closest to the beach. Friend stayed here for 350 - 400 baht / room for 2. But the room is huge. Good flooring and pretty comfy with alot of space.
Climbs (muahaha):
I rarely climb at Railay but can share some of my limited knowledge on this area.
Easy climbing: Diamond Caves. The haven of 6's. Hardest is only a 6b+ i think. about 20 routes there. The concrete path is quite steep. After reaching the crag you start to wonder if the path is a 5a+. Climbs pretty much similar to each other.
Muay Thai 6b+ - Balls route. Quite fun. Perhaps a good project for girls.
Chicken Head 6c+ - Crux at first - second clip. Abit hard don't get rope burn. Jansen tried it and it looked really gd from a belayer's pt of view.
Short and Savage (Short and Stupid) 6b+ - 3 clip route. Damn easy if you got beta. Cheap thrill. Girls can spank this too. Opp. this route is another 3 clip route. Same grade but a bit harder and nicer.
Orientales (I think that's the name and grade) 6a+ - A very popular route. Good for sight seeing and build up of guts. There's another 30m 6 sth route near it which is gd and easy.
Quarkz - Never done it but seems to be the few reasons to visit Railay. Short and crimpy. 7b i think. Can check out Alvin spank this route on youtube :)
Sightseeing: Thaiwand Wall! Beautiful scenery at the top of any climb! Can see shades of blue and green of the ocean and overlook Tonsai and Railay. Trekking quite tiring and the paths is very dodgy and scary at certain parts.
Tonsai
Good climbing for girls: Tyrolean Walls offer VERY good technical climbing. Placebo 6c, Missing Snow 6b+, Loisl 6c+ (a bit hard), Lars and Lars 7a (maybe only 6c+). Placebo and MS are good projects for girls (not inc. of imba monstaaas aka Doris). Done all of them and must say I like them all.
Lion King 6c+ - Gd and very different climb. Be careful of falling.
Ok the grades look intimidating but there isn't much below this grade. And those that are below it along Tonsai beach are mostly pretty lame and overinflated. There's a sick 6b+ which involves holding monster jugs and scrambling into a cave and with your zaiest ex downturned Sportiva rock shoes walk along the cave to the anchor. Ain't that just sick? The Schlingels are still ok and not bad, I think.
Hard climbing: Won't mention the usual. The list on SCA is comprehensive and definitely recommended.
Sightseeing: Fire Wall :) just trek towards Melting Wall or Shadow Wall (cant remember which. Just walk along the path towards burnt offerings.) Can have a gd view of the whole of Tonsai.
Food (Tonsai):
Muesli with fruits and milk 40B - Beside freedom bar.
Muesli with yoghurt and alot of fruits 50B - Road side stall near pancake store
Banana Pancakes! 30B - Near minimart
Currys ask Jansen the spicy connoisseur
Fried rice - Mix and match the permutations and combinations of meat and restaurant.
Yup that's all I've got :) Pls spam suntan lotion and join the league of ah nehs.
Sunday, June 14
Thursday, June 4
Watch, and learn.
This is Ivan German. He lost his leg in a motorbike accident some years ago. He did not let what others term a 'disability' stop him from climbing hard. Here, he is climbing a 7c+.
Hopefully, to those of you who think your height, span, short legs, short body, long legs, long body, puny biceps or big butt is the reason why you can't do some routes, you will wake up your idea after watching this. It is you who has to adapt to the route and not the other way round, so if you want to be someone who can finish routes every style, work on whatever you need to overcome what is hindering you. Or, of course, you can choose to walk away from the route and find one that you can flash easily simply because it's the easier option. Ivan German may have found this route to be less demanding, but hey, he's got a valid excuse.
So, short of sounding holier-than-thou, I say, let nothing stop you from climbing, whatever the reason.
