Friday, October 8

Jin Xian

Hi everyone I am Jin Xian and this is me enjoying it with Daniel:

Here are 5 (hopefully) interesting things about me:

1. I like offroad riding. But after starting school now no time to go already la, so thinking of selling my bike already. Was quite onzzz and go like every week previously before school started! Quite onz last time la, chiong until I fell and my elbow had a hole. Had to go for operation thats why maybe some of you will realise my left elbow has a scar. Oh well stop riding then also won't have such accidents already yes :-)

That's me btw if you can't see! (Malaysia)

My bike in some deep trouble here (yes deep trouble)

2. I like to play guitar. Used to play alot before school started also but nowadays with so much work much lesser time to play also la :-( Last time like during work (before sch started) I would sometimes think about chionging home to play guitar after work hahahahahah.

Here is a rather old picture, I have another one just like the front one and sold the red one alr

3. I went for dive camp 2010 with NUS this year. So I just achieved my open water not too long ago also. Met Aaron there also! See pics!

Me la who else right. Cannot make any facial expression so no choice twist la

Aaron and I and some other guys

4. I started climbing when I was in JC. I am from Tampines Junior College and am proud to be from there! (I hope same goes for Jia Hua???) But on hindsight I didn't take training as seriously as I should la. Whole day slack and slack. Ehhhh last time always high wall high wall though. But that doesn't mean I like to high wall! In fact I'm scared of high wall and its been damnnnnnn long since I high walled or lead climbed!!!

That's me at french sch 2007

5. Eh what else about me??? For some reason people in climbing team like to disturb me about my piercings, which I feel is pretty normal to me la (of cos la since I see the piercings everyday righttttt). I do not want to pierce anywhere else though cos I'm quite afraid of those piercings with alot of meat ah eg. tongue, cheek, eyebrow. Yuckkkkk! Hmm so sometimes people will ask me if I wanna get tattoo. Well hahahaha. Want la but have to seek daddy and mummy permission leh. Kena scolded for even asking previously hehehe.

And yes if you realised, most of my photos stored on my computer are in neatly labeled folders so I will always remember what event or date was it that the pictures were taken. Thumbs up for myself :-P But of cos some pics just cop from Facebook la. That's 6 things!

Yes so that's 5 (or maybe 6) things about me that are (hopefully) interesting.

YUN NI MY DEAR MORTAL U R NEXT :-)

Random Traning Ideas

Just a couple of things, mainly to do with strengthening the shoulder girdle. Random stuff that’s been floating in my training folder for awhile now. This is going to be a leetle messy so do bear with me.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p5-PLpC2Zlo

http://www.t-nation.com/free_online_article/sports_body_training_performance_repair/shoulder_the_load

Addtionally, see the quotes below:

As someone with both higher education/actual work experience in the exercise science/fitness field and as a climber, this is what I can offer to you:

As many have stated, standard resistance training does not really translate into improved climbing per se. However, this does not mean it is useless or will have no effect on your stamina or strength (because we cannot work on movement skills with the greatest efficiency when our overall physical conditioning is low or when we have kinetic chain weaknesses).

That said, the required amount of standard resistance training will be much less than your former regimen. In your former incarnation of training, such a schedule will hinder your climbing due to recovery needs.

I don't really have time right now to assess all the exercises you have listed blow by blow (and for the record, no exercises are really "good" or "bad," it's more about how you implement them wrt load and volume), but I can tell you that I feel climbers can do well to supplement their climbing training by:

* eliminating isolation exercises (with perhaps the exception of triceps isolations or forearm extensor isolations)

* using their time to mainly lift for upper body pushing muscle groups (compound)

* doing lower body compound exercises in moderation (you make mix in all loads/volumes if you so desire), esp. making sure not to neglect posterior chain training (low back/glute/ham/calf synergistic movements)

* doing rotator cuff and lower trapezius training

* doing functional core stability work....things like medicine ball slams, Pilates exercises, thera-ball exercises, etc.

* doing upper body compound pulling exercises in small amounts (you get a whole bunch of this in climbing, after all)

Source: http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_view_flat;post=2401294;page=2;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;mh=25;

And,

Edited to add: the key to reducing one's aerobic training yet still maintain the same levels of fitness, you must only reduce either FREQUENCY or DURATION by 1/3 to 2/3 and you must keep your intensity absolutely the same as before, plus keep the other variable the same as well. Ergo:

Intensity (same) + Frequency (same) + Duration (less) OR

Intensity (same) + Frequency (less) + Duration (same)

= Maintenance
(I also remember hearing that you can decrease both Freq and Dur by up to 2/3 simul and still not suffer losses, so, that may in fact be the actual case.)

BUT

Intensity (less) + Frequency (same) + Duration (same)

= Decreases in fitness

Likewise, resistance training requires MAXIMAL effort of all muscle groups to maintain existing strength on one day per week.

Source: http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=1815779;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;forum_view=forum_view_collapsed;


Also, if you were wondering about the relation between typical weight lifting conventions to things like fingerboard training, check this out.


First of all going to failure is not needed to gain strength or muscle. Not in forearms or anywhere else in the body. It is enough to do better in the long run in weights and volume (sets and reps).

Going to failure in this kind of repetitive training is very hard on finger joints and soft tissue in general and is too injury prone to be that successful in the long run. This does not mean the training should be a walk in the park, no no.

Second thing that goes wrong is the adaptation of old bodybuilding "rules" to strength training like "do 6-12 reps for muscle growth". It does not apply like this to system wall, HIT or bouldering workouts. A weight training "rep" can´t be transfered into a climbing move 1:1. So no correlation to weight training that way.

The set lengths are way too long and too simple mindedly put. 12-20 reps that are most usually recommended last quite a long time and there are no suggestions ever on rep (or move) length.

If you do a move let´s say every 3 secs it is quite fast action if you adjust feet, body etc etc every move so the most of the time is done moving easily and not hanging on a hold. If you progress only from Hörsts´ 12 reps to 20 reps you gain a lot less volume than following other ways, read further.

To get a bit more out of otherwise good system tiles of Mr Hörst, I would recommend:
- When training for basic strength or hypertrophy the set length should be kept around 30-50 secs. Hörsts´ recommendations work mainly the low end of anaerobic endurance.

- No need to go to failure but progress in weights, reps, sets etc in the long run. An example:
...In the beginning of the basic strength phase:
5 grips, 2 sets of 8 moves (4 secs/move) total @ 20 lbs extra weight
...A goal in the end of the same phase:
5 grips, 4 sets of 10 moves (5 secs/move) total @ 30 lbs extra weight

- You can also use different loading patterns like descending (like 4,6,8,10) and ascending (10,8,6,4) pyramids, equal sets (4x8), double sets (2x8, 2x6), contrast sets 3x(8x30 lbs, 8x5lbs) etc...

- The body does not recognize moves so keep the set length around 30-50 secs and vary the length of the hang on a hold too.

- Training for maximum strength keep the set length under 20 secs. That means around 1-4 moves total.

- You can progress a lot more if you add sets too and not only reps or weight. The overall volume is the key in the basic phase.

- The pauses between sets are another way to progress. You might start on 3 minute pauses and progress to a shorter rests. BUT: the pauses are not that important than the amount of resistance (weights, set length). The pauses have more to do with endurance training intervals.

- You should absolutely use different angle lock offs etc to make sets harder too. Hold for 2-5 secs per lock off. This alters the set length of course so that´s why you should forget the moves and concentrate on time.

- You should always cut the training in phases. First the hypertrophy and then the neural stuff. The HIT system is best used during the basic phase in the beginning of the training season along other basic hypertrophy training like finger curls, hangboard etc. When the season comes closer concentrate much more on real climbing to perfect your movement skills. I can´t stress that enough.

- It is very much possible to train anaerobic endurance on HIT strips too. Both short (1-3 minute strength endurance) and long (5-10 minute muscle endurance) duration. Of course everything depends on the wall angle (make it adjustable) and your level of fitness. Intervals work well too.

- The basic strength and hypertrophy phase should last at least 2 months to give any good progression in muscle size. First you get neural activation and after that the muscle itself gets bigger that is the phase goal. Of course the gains are not generally very large. Imagine 100 grams more on each of your forearms so no fear for huge extra weight gain :)

- The max strength and recruitment phase can be shorter, 4-8 weeks.

- Keep the "normal" climbing along!!! Absolutely! The movement efficiency, coordination etc training are way too important to let go for even a short while.


Source: http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_view_flat;post=2273741;page=2;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;mh=25;


For further references, see http://www.fitnessvancouver.ca/content/time%20under%20tension.htm




While we wait for the cow's post......

2010 Unified Bouldering Championships Pro Tour Finale at The Nor'easter from NE2C on Vimeo.



Wednesday, October 6

Understand why my arm has no more strength after doing ARC for more than 10 mins...

Lactic Acid and Pumped Forearms

Wouldn't it be a nice feeling if lactic acid and pumped forearms didn't exist, like it is for kids*. Athletics have been fighting with lactic acid build up for decades, but there is no universal solution. It is a bummer for us climbers, even less is known. This article takes a brief look at the "pumped" syndrome, what lactic acid is and how you can deal with it. If you have ideas or know more than us, email 8a.nu now! We always want your feedback.

Practise - What is a pumped forearm and how to avoid it?
There are three possibly reasons why your arms feel like lead and have blown up like balloons. Firstly, lactic acid has been left in your arms which makes the muscles swell, secondly the contractions in the muscles have a hard time to let go and thirdly there is too much blood into your arms. Below three methods to prevent getting pumped forearms is presented.

A pulsating or tickling gripping technique
Based on the theory below, pumped forearms are the result of long constant contact time with the holds. One way of avoiding this is using a pulsating gripping technique. It helps liberate the muscle contraction to make blood supply possible, even for just a couple of short time windows. It means that all your body weight will have to be carried by only one hand at the time. The circulation in both your forearms is low when both your hands are used for holding on. Remember that the blood supply is completely shut when the muscle is at 50% of its maximum load. Most probably you are already unconsciously doing this as all top climbers are using it, but keep it in mind and develop your technique to make it more efficient.

Hands up and squeezing
Often the strongest feeling of a pumped forearm occurs immediately after you have finished climbing. To avoid blood being pumped and pushed downwards into your forearms, you should hold them above your head and lean them against the wall immediately after you have climbed. By doing this you will make it harder for the arteries to flood your forearms and increase the possibility for the blood to flow in the veins. The time of holding your arms above your head is individual and depending of how pumped you are. Another way of assisting the blood circulation is to squeeze your hands in order to increase the blood flow in the veins.

Running - Dilution and Purification of lactic acid
Once you have lactic acid in your forearms you need to speed up the recovery to remove it. One way of doing so is to increase the supply of blood by mildly activating other bigger muscles in your body. It will even out the spread out lactic acid in your body's muscles and the high concentrate of acid in your forearms will be diluted. The other reason for increasing the blood circulation is because your liver is a purification plant. It turns waste products, lactates, into usable energy. A faster blood flow through the liver causes the level of lactic acid to diminishing more rapidly. In general, most of the lactic acid in your forearms is broken down within two hours, but some of these measures can halve that time.


Theory - What is lactic acid and how is it created?

In brief the oxygenated blood which is flowing into your muscles can be insufficient and lactic acid is produced. Lactic acid is a product of a non-oxygenated muscle process and called anaerobic metabolism (Gr. an- means "without", aer- means "air"). When there is a steady supply of oxygenated blood in your muscles, it's called an aerobic process, and you can't get pumped. One reason for why the oxygen in the blood is insufficient is that when a muscle contracts it squeezes the capillaries within it closed. This is a problem as these capillaries supply the muscles with oxygen rich blood. It is believed that if you load your muscles to 50% of their maximum strength the capillaries are completely closed. A lighter load makes it possible to gradually open them and continue the blood supply. If the load is below 20% they will be more or less fully open.

Another factor is the intervals in which a muscle has to work. When a muscle is working and is being interrupted by a relaxation contraction, every couple of seconds, lactic acid production will be avoided. New oxygenated blood is being supplied, to the muscle, in-between these working intervals. This has to do with something called ATP which the muscles have restored for some five seconds work. Longer contractions than five seconds, or repeating contraction intervals with minimum rest, means that lactic acid starts to be produced as the ATP has to be made anaerobically, without oxygen.

The muscle fibres creating the contraction, are working like mousetraps, either loaded or burnt off. No energy is needed for the contraction of the muscle, but for the relaxation loading procedure energy is needed. If no energy is provided the contraction goes on forever and the ultimate stage is called rigor mortise. A softer stage of a continuous contraction is cramp. Once here you are in a vicious circle as the contraction cuts the capillaries flow and no oxygenated blood can be supplied to the muscle.

When there is too much blood in your forearms this also end up as a hindrance more than a benefit and limits the supply of blood. The reason for this is the arteries in the forearm are flooding it. The corresponding veins are unable to remove the surplus blood as the arteries have a higher pressure continually forcing more blood into the arm. This situation occurs after you have climbed and your arms is hanging downwards. Blood flows in easy to pump them up but, at the same time makes it difficult for the veins to squeeze it back.

*Children have a higher ratio of capillaries to muscle fibres and a low ability to maximum recruitment (contraction) which means that their blood supply to the muscles is constant.
 
www.8a.nu

Sunday, October 3

ALICIA

haha hello everybody! so eggciting posting something on the team blog!


ok, must continue trend of posting late,
must continue trend of apologizing for the delay,
and must continue trend of using cropped out pictures :D


I really don't know what to write, and its depressing to realize that I don't have a happzs life, cause I'm a very boring person, and I lead a very normal life, so I'll try my best at this!


  1. where i came from.

    '
    I joined climbing back in TJ, which means this would be my third year climbing. I didn't climb much during my J2 year cause I fell when I was bouldering, which landed me with a dislocated and fractured elbow. so, I didn't do much climbing in j2. actually in fact, I didn't do anything much for my J2 year. all my friends helped to carry my bag, buy me lunch, serve me...

    back then, serene was our training coordinator, so technically knowing her for 3 years, she's my BFF actually haha. I'll always see her long ponytail flying about when she climbs.

  2. eh, they all say I got the wormy face. when I came into uni, all my friends say I look like the worm from worms armageddon. I never heard of it for 19 years of my life until now. they even linked me the picture, and make me pose with air bazookas to compare.


    where got.....

    oh my friends call me ali/ahlee/ahleeeeeeeeeee (they like to sa jiao when they call my name). I think it's rather confusing between the 'licia's' so I'll respond to anyone calling me ali. eh actually I'll respond to anything, like 'eh!' lol

  3. I have dimple on my right cheek only! k, it's not really deep, so my brother always say that it's just a wrinkle. I try to use the chopsticks to press it against my cheek, to deepen the hole. but eh tragically so far, no use leh.
    worth the effort though :)

  4. oh I used to have bung hair when I was in secondary school. haha I think it's normal for girls to go through this confused state of being rebellious, like some rite of passage to womanhood. eh I didn't want to post pictures of my tragic past, but I promised so, I'm so sporting haha.


    eh high tech. I know blogger got this click then can enlarge function. I duno how to scale it down, so just steer your mouse away, just in case you get a shock haha.
    it was my attempt to be rocka-chic lah haha. somemore I was in Cedar, girls school, no guys to impress, so I pretend to be guy to impress girls lo. some days I'll use gel to spike my hair, and I got my fair shares of 'xiao di, ni yao shen me?'

    I don't know whther it was a good decision, but those days were definitely one of the most breeziest.

    that's how i meant shuhui! she was my senior in band. I played the trombone for 7 years already, then when I was in JC, I switched over to climbing. I got a grade 3 distinction in violin, wanted to continue but too busy nowadays. I play the piano leisurely, just randomly picking up scores from the net, then learning them, and I play abittt of th guitar. all here and there.

    here and there, I did taiqi for like.... two months? haha with my family and dad. taiqi's rly not easy. it's not that relaxing as it seems. took tkd until red-black because I needed to be at least 16 yrs old to get a black belt, and i was only in primary school.

  5. I don't have a single skirt in my wardrobe.

    I don't like the sight of shit/urine, so in the cubicle, whenever I turn back, I quickly throw the used tissue into the bowl, close my eyes and flush.

    I like to kaypoh and look at what people smsing/reading/playing on the train.

    I have hearing problems haha. esp when I'm tired, i'll 'har?' you more at night.

    When I laugh, I like to grab people's arm. whoever's closest to me.
    but sometimes, when I'm tired, or not looking properly, I'll miss the arm, and grab the.... you know, the B word. hahah I accidentally grabbed serene's one two times already.

    many random points make one major point!
ok YAYYY it's done!

hmmm next one to sabo, JIN XIAN!

Saturday, October 2

While we wait for Alicia's post



small part from the film in the last post

this guy is awesome.(edit: and good looking too imo)

i love the part where he does the dual climbing up the nose with Alex Honnold

first saw this vid on facebook by tim tay.. cheers

Thursday, September 30

Something to psyche up on

Great Music
Great Climbing
Loads of adventure.
Just listening to the music and watching the scenes transition smoothly is 2minutes of my life well spent



Tuesday, September 28

Care for Our New Toy

Hello, created a post in case it goes unnoticed in the tag board.

When screwing tiles onto the volume using the impact driver, PLEASE align the bolt correctly before screwing the tile in. It's even possible to misalign the bolt when screwing the tile in using an allen key so all the more don't zua blindly when using an impact driver. It doesn't use T nuts which you can replace if the tread gets warped.

It's new so it should be easy to screw tiles in. If it feels very stiff and slightly stuck, the bolt may not be aligned so do check .

Lastly, I noticed that you don't really require very long bolts for the volume to screw tiles in. Perhaps just the length of the first digit of your index finger.

Alright enjoy :) No one has claimed first blood yet ie. abrasions.

EDIT: Yixiang raised a point. DON'T screw screw ons on the volume. They do that for comps. But for now, we're not really sure if there are any implications on durability, damage etc. so let's be conservative. Perhaps that option can be explored next time.

Sunday, September 26

FIVE FIVE FIVE?

hello everybody =)
yah i am another person to say sorry for taking so long to update this blog.
not that i am trying to be uninteresting with the introduction paragraph, but let me just go straight into the FIVE FIVE FIVE things about myself/

1. i was first introduced to climbing/bouldering by my army friend, Brian (Puay Hoon's boyfriend if you know who). the first time i went into a bouldering gym (Yishun Safra) was in late december 2008. that was my first encounter with bouldering. i bought my first pair of madrock after my second time climbing/bouldering. well i guess sometimes when you feel that you have started off quite okay for a sport you would want to try pursuing it further? so after the shoes, i got my own harness and carabiners. and after those, i actually bought a climbing rope with a friend! overly enthu =). besides climbing in asia, lab and yishun, i have only been to dairy farm, camp5 and batu caves. i am really looking forward to see more of the climbing world out there!

2. honestly i still feel like a noob climbing with all of you. for a sport, skill and strength aside, i feel that experience still counts for alot. it is still about how much and how long you have been with the sport. most of you climb with much confidence even after falling off a route repeatedly. for me, i still feel the lack in that confidence and familiarity for the sport even after completing a route. but of course i am making progress to get that good "feel" for the sport, so please guide me =)! i enjoy climbing because i feel that most of the time it is quite intuitive. it is kinda like saying climbing is an innate ability, like running. it is a sport with a simple logic but yet challenging. the environment is mostly fixed and it is you who have to get used to it. the competitors for the sport is real, but the competition is actually between you and yourself. haha just my opinion.

3. eh still on sports. i have been playing volleyball since primary 4. i was from my school's volleyball team since then till jc2. hmm come to think of it, i represented my formation in army for volleyball too. i see volleyball as an uncommon sport which not anyone would know how to play. unlike soccer or basketball, it would not be very likely for you to see a decently game being played anywhere in the neighbourhood. no volleyball court and net ah! i do play soccer and basketball too. i love running. i recently knew how to swim, picked up sailing and had a level1 cert, tried windsurfing and attempted tennis (both cannot make it), got my basic openwater diving cert like serene, went on a 1 and a half months trekking/mountaineering/for fun trip in India. basically i am a cannot sit still, outdoor loving, sports person =).

4. i have an interest in visual art. interest doesn't mean you have to be good at it or anything =). i feel that it is about knowing what you like, what you think is beautiful, and what you appreciate. i like colours and designs and patterns. i think part of it leads me to develop a interest in photography. i started reading up on photography and bought my current camera during and after jc2. photography is a expensive hobby so i could only afford the cheapest. contrary to popular belief that dslr is a thousand dollar thing/toy, my d40 cost about $790 before gst. I believe that through photography, it is one of the easiest way for anyone to create a beautiful artwork (in a form of a picture). but after entering to uni, i seldom touch my camera.

5. okay last point for random facts about me: i don't play computer (PC) games. the only games i play are call of duty and marvel ultimate alliance on ps3. i have a psp but i don't use it. i don't go clubbing. i have only been into a club twice and i dislike it. i like Spider-Man. i like to eat green-tea ice-cream. i have 3 elder sisters and that make me the youngest and only boy in the family. i have been living in the same house since i was born. i can't take crazy rollercoaster rides. i can juggle 3 balls. i joined violin as a cca in primary school, but i cant play any musical instruments including the recorder. i am not as blur as i sometimes seemed to be......

okay done. ALICIA, you are next! =)

Tuesday, September 21

something i'm guilty of not doing!

2 articles i wanna share here. cause i find its quite a problem i face. haha. although obviously it doesn show considering im not exactly stick thin. xD i feel the pressure though.
link #2 complements fel's previous article :)
i only copied out the second article, so those who wanna read the first one click on the link! i think its interesting!


link #1:
how mainstream media has altered the way we think about eating:

The PsychCentral post offers a lengthy exploration of what it means to eat normally.



#2:
July 2, 2009, 1:29 pm

Eating to Fuel Exercise

Leslie Bonci

No matter what kind of exercise you do – whether it’s a run, gym workout or bike ride – you need food and water to fuel the effort and help you recover.

But what’s the best time to eat before and after exercise? Should we sip water or gulp it during a workout? For answers, I spoke with Leslie Bonci, director of sports nutrition at the University of Pittsburgh Medical Center and a certified specialist in sports dietetics. She’s also the author of a new book, “Sports Nutrition for Coaches” (Human Kinetics Publishers, July 2009). Here’s our conversation.

Q.How important is the timing and type of food and fluid when it comes to exercise?
A.I take the approach of thinking of food as part of your equipment. People are not going to run well with one running shoe or ride with a flat tire on their bike. Your food is just like your running shoes or your skis. It really is the inner equipment. If you think of it this way, you usually have a better outcome when you’re physically active.

Q.What’s the most common mistake you see new exercisers make when it comes to food?
A.There are two common mistakes. Often somebody is not having anything before exercise, and then the problem is you’re not putting fuel into your body. You’ll be more tired and weaker, and you’re not going to be as fast.

The second issue is someone eats too much. They don’t want to have a problem, so they load up with food, and then their stomach is too full. It’s really a fine line for getting it right.

Q. At what point before exercise should we be eating?
A. I like it to be an hour before exercise. We’re just talking about a fist-sized amount of food. That gives the body enough food to be available as an energy source but not so much that you’ll have an upset stomach. So if you’re going to exercise at 3 p.m., you need to start thinking about it at 2 p.m.

Q.What about water? How much should we be drinking?
A. About an hour before the workout you should have about 20 ounces of liquid. It takes about 60 minutes for that much liquid to leave the stomach and make its way into the muscle. If you have liquid ahead of time, you’ll be better hydrated when you start to be physically active.

Q.Can you explain more about what you mean by a “fist-size” of food?
A.That’s just a good visual for the amount. It could be something along the lines of a granola bar. I’m not a fan of the low carb bars. You need carbs as an energy source. We can’t really just do a protein bar. You want something in the 150 to 200 calorie range. That’s not enormous. Maybe a peanut butter and jelly wrap cut into little pieces, a fist-sized amount of trail mix. The goal is to put some carbohydrate in the body before exercise as well as a little bit of protein.

Q.What if I’m planning a long run or bike ride that’s going to keep me out for a few hours? Should I eat more?
A.If we put too much food in the stomach in advance of exercise, it takes too long to empty and that defeats the purpose. We want something that will empty fairly quickly. If you’re exercising in excess of one hour, then you need to fuel during the exercise. For workouts lasting more than an hour, aim for about 30 to 60 grams of carbs per hour. We’re not going to be camels here. Some people use gels, honey or even sugar cubes or a sports drink.

Q. Does the timing of your food after you’re finished exercising make any difference?
A. Post exercise, my rule of thumb, I like for people to eat something within 15 minutes. The reason for that is that the enzymes that help the body re-synthesize muscle glycogen are really most active in that first 15 minutes. The longer we wait to eat something, the longer it takes to recover.

Q.Why is it that peanut butter sandwiches come up so often as good fuel for exercise?

If people are really embarking on an exercise program and want to prevent that delayed-onset muscle soreness, refueling is part of it. Again, it’s a small amount – a fist-sized quantity. Low-fat chocolate milk works very well. The goal is not a post-exercise meal. It’s really a post-exercise appetizer to help the body recover as quickly as it can. You can do trail mix, or make a peanut butter sandwich. Eat half before and half after.

A. It’s about having carbohydrate with some protein. It’s inexpensive and nonperishable. That’s a big deal for people, depending on the time of day and year. They’re exercising and they don’t want something that will spoil. Peanut butter is an easy thing to keep around.


Q.What do we need to know about replenishing fluids as we exercise?
A. Everybody has a different sweat rate, so there isn’t one amount of liquid that someone is going to need while they exercise. Most people consume about 8 ounces per hour – that’s insufficient across the board. Your needs can range from 14 ounces to 40 ounces per hour depending on your sweat rate. Those people who are copious sweaters need to make an effort to get more fluid in while they exercise. I’m a runner, and I can’t depend on water fountains, so either someone is carrying water or you bring money. Store keepers always love that when you give them sweaty bills!

But nobody can be a camel. If you aren’t taking fluid in you have a risk of heat injury and joint injury, and strength, speed and stamina diminish. This is an important part of any training. Put fluid back into the body during exercise.

Q. Should we keep sipping fluids while we’re exercising?

A. How we drink can make a difference in how optimally we hydrate our body. A lot of people sip liquids, but gulping is better. Gulps of fluid leave the stomach more rapidly. It’s important to do this. It seems counterintuitive, it seems like gulping would cause a cramp. People are more likely to have stomach cramps sipping because fluid stays in their gut too long.

When you take more fluid in, gulps as opposed to sips, you have a greater volume of fluid in the stomach. That stimulates the activity of the stretch receptors in the stomach, which then increase intra-gastric pressure and promote faster emptying. This is why gulping is preferred.

Q. Do you have any recommendations about the frequency of meals for people who exercise regularly?
A.If you have breakfast, lunch and dinner and a pre- and post-exercise snack, that’s at least five times a day of eating. When people are physically active, anything under three meals a day is not going to be enough.

(article above is from: http://well.blogs.nytimes.com/2009/07/02/eating-to-fuel-exercise/)

hope it's been useful if not interesting!

-rare guest:
crystal


Thursday, September 16




Dear climbers,

in this upcoming year, we are to develop ourselves holistically, hence aside from soccer training this friday night for pure pleasure, we are going to JAM! JAM aka make music with strange instruments and your own voice, is a-soon-to-be-tradition in the climbing club due to the exisitance of many talented musicians! for example, the infamous rocker bert plays drums so well that he can even make music from KFC drumsticks, daniel the piano genius and of cause, resident singer Arvin Tang with sucha beautiful voice.

come join us after monday's carnival, dont be afraid if you have never tried it before. u'll enjoy it=) confirm attendance ASAP here for we have to book the Jamming room! this time, besides the rock songs, we may experiement with some chinese songs! =D

Wednesday, September 15

FIVE FIVE FIVE


Hello:D
I know i'm super late for this blog update! Cause i'm quite lazy and i keep procrastinating:) Plus i'm such a noob at things like these cause i don't know how to work this blogger. So yes, it's finally here(: 5 things about myself.

1. I started climbing ever since JC1 in Temasek Junior College, so it's been only about 3 years? took up this sport mainly cause i wanted to try out something new and of course, was attracted by TJ's rock wall(: Slowly, my passion for climbing grew stronger and stronger... It has always been my motivation. No matter how tired i am from everyday's class, i will always be looking forward to training at the end of the day. Climbing is something that i enjoy doing all the time and it makes me happy! I'm sure everyone is the team has the same kind of passion for climbing too. Sometimes bouldering too much makes me feel quite unbalanced though, high-wall makes me feel good and much more satisfied whenever i complete a route. Maybe it's the fresher air i get each time i climb higher(:

2. Other than climbing, i love diving as well(: Yep, i was certified this year during my many months long break after Alevels! Have been wanting to learn diving and i finally got my chance to during my holidays. The first time i breathe underwater, i felt a sense of calmness. The cold dry air you breathe underwater through the oxygen tank is just different from any other air. Not that the air has magical powers, but it's the environment. Underwater world is just awesomely beautiful and amazing. It's always good to break away from the busy, stressful world and get underwater! It's calm, peaceful and quiet.... Sometimes, i wish our world would be like that too:)
hope to go to different places to dive!

3. It's my dream to travel around the world. I want to see and experience the different culture and lives(: School's always so busy for me to do things i want to do. Now that i'm in uni, holidays are longer so.......... more enjoyable moments for me(: One advice, travel alone or with frens. Traveling with family never seemed fun for me. With friends, you can do anything you want, play like crazy and have all the fun in the world. When you travel alone, you have all the time in the world to yourself. When everything gets too fast in life, all you need is just alone and away from everything.

4. I can be quite loner at times one leh, like everything just do myself, go myself. I like to take long bus rides myself cos i can have the time to think and reflect or sleep:D When i'm tired, i think i look damn sian. Then i won't really talk... it's not that i'm unfriendly, just sleeeeppppyyyyyy:) You all can make friends with me! the more the merrier:D come come come!

5. At first, i thought i was already quite small sized. Then come into the team, hmmm actually quite a lot all about same same one(: makes me feel like home! Sometimes, i feel bigger;) My tjc climbing team calls me xiao-ser cos they think i'm small. But if they see the girls, then half the girls team become xiao-something ready:D


OKAY, so that's basically about me. But of course, i dun always give full details. Like that everyone know your personality then you dun seem as unique anymore(:

Next up will be...............
CHRIS :)

Tuesday, September 14

Love eating but want to Climb Well too=) Read this then!


The essential nutrients required for normal body functioning are proteins, carbs, fats, minerals, vitamins and water.

Proteins are essential to growth and repair of muscle, skin and other body tissues. Foods that are natural sources of proteins are eggs, diary products, meat, fish, beans, nuts and seeds.

Carbs are our main source of energy. They constitute the essential body fuel. Carbs are divided between simple carbs (sugars) and complex carbs. Complex carbs rich foods are rice, pasta, bread, muesli, potatoes. Chocolate, candy bars and sugar are richer in simple carbs.

Fats are an essential nutrient that the body needs to process vitamins and minerals. Fats can be cowboyishly labelled good fats and bad (for the health) fats. The bad fats (saturated fats) are found in butter, lard, coconut oil, dairy products (especially cream and cheese), fat meat, chocolate and candy bars. Good fats (unsaturated fats) are found in nuts and fish (among others) – some of them (omega 3 and omega 6) are essential for human growth.

Minerals and vitamins are essential nutrients that our body needs in small amounts to work properly. Minerals and vitamins can be found in varying amounts in a variety of foods such as meat, cereals (including cereal products such as bread), fish, milk and dairy foods, vegetables, fruit and nuts.

Water: drink plenty of it, both during exercise and rest, on hot and on cold days. Drink minimum 2 litters per day.

Carefully planned nutrition must provide both an energy balance (i.e. about 2000 calories for women and 2500 for men per day) and a nutrient balance (generally considered to be 45-65% carbs, 25-35% fat and 15-35% protein). Climbers will need to tweak these somewhat depending on their lifestyle and priorities. Weekend warriors who have sedentary jobs should try to keep their intake of fats and simple carbs low (especially on non climbing days) whereas travelling vagabonds can afford to be a bit less disciplined. Also, it is sensible to increase the carbs intake on climbing days and the protein intake on rest days.

Some practical suggestions

The recovery meal: This is probably the most important meal for a climber. Following a hard climbing session a climber’s energy stores are depleted and some of the muscle fibres are damaged. The recovery meal is crucial in order to allow you to replenish your energy reserves and to repair your muscles to be able to climb again soon. In order to replenish energy reserves you need to eat carbs, as soon as possible after climbing. Consuming carbs (approximately 2g per kg of body weight), and approximately 30g of protein within 2 hours after exercise speeds up the recovery time. My ideal dinner between two climbing days is a big pasta meal and 100-150 grams of chicken breast.

The pre-session meal: If you are going to climb you need energy i.e. carbs. As a rule of thumb, avoid too much proteins and fats before a climbing session (mixing carbs and proteins can slow down digestion). Endurance athletes famously eat rice or pasta for breakfast on training days. I have tried it and it works fabulously for me. Also allow at least an hour between a meal and a climbing session (the larger the meal the longer you should allow for your body to digest at least partially the meal).

During a climbing session: If you are planning a hard day out climbing, to avoid depleting your energy stores try to have light snacks every two hours. Avoid fats or proteins as this slows down digestion. Fruits (especially bananas or dried fruits), whole meal bread and … some pasta (no tomato sauce – try it with some sugar, it tastes surprisingly good) work quite well.

Day off meal
If you are planning a day off, it makes sense to increase your protein intake to speed up the muscle fibre repair process. However you will also need some carbs (complex carbs!) to keep your energy reserves. Unless you have a good metabolism, avoid exceeding the recommended calories intake as excess food (especially sugars) may be converted into fat.



Saturday, September 11

It's SOCCER time!!


Anybody wanna play soccer this coming Friday after 6pm @ handball court? Let's not climb and try a different sport this time!

So far there's Arvin, Heng Hong and myself. Bring your soccer shoes or sports shoes to kick some BALL!! (Girls are more than welcome to join also! Just play play only)

Leave a comment here if you're interested so that I roughly know how many people are coming! 1 more week to recess week!! =)

Tuesday, September 7

looking for some help tomorrow!

Hi guys! I need some help to return some of the logistics stuff to SRC tomorrow. Meet me outside the gym at around 4.30! Sorry it's a little last minute because i only knew about it not too long ago

loss of house keys

whoever took it please return it to me asap if not i will not be able to go home!
has a green key along with the rest

MEN TOYS

Jia hua testing his new wireless keyboard from his bed
bert playing with his ball
Ultimate dream desk???hahaha
headed down to the IT fair on saturday! Look at what turns some of our male climbers in our team on=)



Monday, September 6

Truly an adventure

Just them and mother nature

As It Happens from renan ozturk on Vimeo.



Friday, September 3

Randomness

First Annual Small Penis Contest

Not for the faint of heart. You have been warned.


Tuesday, August 31


Hey, so sry for the super late post! Been procastinating ah. So here are 5 things about myself :)

I love to sing and pool! Has been mi favourite pastime other than climbing since the day i ORDed. Bt not really gd at it. Haha.. I’m like super tone deaf & the worse thin is tt didn’t know it was that bad until all mi frens laughed the moment i sang my very 1st first song in Kbox. Lol! So any of u guys wanna go k or play pool must rmb 2 jio mi k! (If u dun mind mi lousy vocals). :) 

Oya, I started out climbing since I was in tjc. Haha. People thr were great! Haha. Been enjoyin every climbing trainin there. So mi number one choice for CCA definitely has to be climbing! :) Hmm.. Come to tink of it ive been trng wif u guys 4 nearing a month alr! Realised the nus climbers r like super passionate about the sport la! Haha. We have so many alumni joining us for trng after graduation. Feels gd to be part of this family man. :)

I have fear of heights!! Hahahaha. A bit weird rite.. A climber afraid of falling. Tts why i seldom do lead climbing. Nt that im afrid of dying (Maybe a bit) but I jus dun like tt kind of feeling u get from a lead climbing. Hahaha. I used to jus nua here n ther b4 any of mi lead climbs. Then when im on the wall i’ll b like super chiong to finish the route so tt i can come dwn asap. Hahaha. Tink u guys will c dis happenin during the yr end trip too. Lol

I love HongKong culture! The food, language n everythin else! Hahahaha. Have always wanted to learn cantonese but haven been able to find the time to (maybe cause im lazy). Have only been to HongKong once and everythin is like super nice ther, the people & culture etc.. Haha. So actually i was hoping our year end trip be held @ HongKong ah. Lol. Nver mind thers always nxt yr!!!

Oya, i gt a super bad habit. Sometimes when I’m like super tired I’ll jus unknowingly stone one. Smethin im trying to change man. Haha. Some of u might alr notice during PT! Ps ah.. A a bit cui at times. So forgive mi if I don’t seem to be listening to u when ur toking k :)

Haha. So thats all i have now! Now passing the pen to Serene! :P