Friday, September 29

Read

this ... cos health and not the next higher climbing grade ... is what we should worry about giving ourselves :)

Athletes tend to be highly competitive, high achieving, and self disciplined individuals who go to great lengths to excel in their sports. This personality type combined with the expectations of team mates and coaches as well as the spectators may make them at a higher risk of developing an eating disorder than the average person. Athletes that compete in sports that emphasize either appearance or require speed, lightness, agility and quickness are at higher risk for developing an eating disorder than are non-athletes or athletes in sports that require muscle mass and bulk.

Eating disorders are most common in athletes that participate in the following sports:
  • ballet and other dance
  • figure skating
  • gymnastics
  • running
  • swimming
  • rowing
  • horse racing
  • wrestling

Both men and women are susceptible to eating disorders, although a greater percent of eating disorders are found in women, possibly due to the social pressures to be thin.

The three most common eating disorders found in athletes are anorexia, bulimia, and compulsive exercise.

The real threat to an athlete with an eating disorder is the extreme stress placed upon the body. The very practice of self starvation, purging or obsessive exercise has a detrimental effect on performance. The binge-purge process results in loss of fluid and low potassium levels, which can cause extreme weakness, as well as dangerous and sometimes lethal heart rhythms.

Women athletes with eating disorders often fit into the so-called The Female Athlete Triad which is disordered eating, osteoporosis and loss of menses or amenorrhea. Many athletes mistakenly think they're not at risk for osteoporosis because they exercise, and exercise is known to strengthen bones. Research shows that exercise alone does not prevent bone loss. Irreversible bone loss starts within six months to two years of the loss of menses. Another negative consequence of eating disorders is the close association to depression.

Identifying athletes with an eating disorder is not easy. They are often secretive or blame their eating and exercise regimen on their training goals. More patients are identified by perceptive coaches or team mates, friends or family members who notice an athlete losing weight, purposelessly exercising outside their training regimen or becoming overly preoccupied with food and weight.

Warning Signs of an Eating Disorder:

  • Preoccupation with food and weight
  • Repeatedly expressed concerns about being fat
  • Increasing criticism of one's body
  • Frequent eating alone
  • Use of laxatives
  • Trips to the bathroom during or following meals
  • Continuous drinking of diet soda or water
  • Compulsive, excessive exercise
  • Complaining of always being cold

Eating disorders in an athlete are serious and can become life threatening if left untreated. Identifying the type of eating disorder is essential to get the right help. The following pages provide more specific information about anorexia, bulimia, and compulsive exercise in athletes.

Important disclaimer information about this article.

Suggested Reading



Thursday, September 28

some of my fav videos/webpages

Most have been mentioned by others, here are some more that i like:
http://www.bigupproductions.com/
(go read the article and catch sharma's interview about climbing his arch project)
http://www.freakclimbing.com/
http://joost.climbing.nl/?page_id=7



interesting articles..
1) everone loves sharma:
2) how to tape your fingers
3) Warming up

Think Or Climb Or Both

Check out As we progress from "Dont Think Just Climb" to "Think then Climb" at http://smuclimb.blogspot.com/
Good Read. Think about which move you're good at, which ones you're bad at; those that you always use, those that you never attempted.

Wednesday, September 27

afterthoughts

camp was great.
it feels good to see people get together and have fun, good old nonsensical fun. especially captain's ball with a papaya.spectacular.and pagaent X totally rocks.watching kesheng and claudia shaking their booty gave me stomach cramps.and junjie should just sign a deal with some Jap AV production house.
had so much fun that the finger didn't bother me much.thanks for the concern!
now,time to climb harder.when it heals.

my team is full of jokers and i love it.
and don't call me serious guy.i'm way more siao than you think.

Climbing Website Links Part 2

Hey peepz,

Continuation of the climbing websites introduction. Hope the juniors actually have seen these posts and visit the sites. Plenty of information (on training, the whos-who of climbing, etc.) beautiful pics and cool videos.

1. https://www.moonclimbing.com/

Website of the legendary Ben Moon. Check out School Room and the video clips. Good stuff.

2. http://www.nicros.com/New%20Training%20Center/Home.shtml

Some stuff on training improvement.

Alrighty, that's all for this post. Part 3 Akan Datang.

Cheers.

Tuesday, September 26

sports ball '06

a night of fun, food, beauty and beer! congrats again to liying!


PS. climbing camp '06 rocks! thanks a million to the organizing comm! it was great! hope the juniors and seniors enjoyed it and bonded well =) Posted by Picasa

Sunday, September 24

Psicobloc



Tuesday, September 19

picture perfect



makes u realise why there are more guys than girls in climbing...

BUT freshie girls dun worry!! in climbing team got no pervert guys...muahhhahaha

Sunday, September 17

my lab partner asked me not to sigh on sunday as there are only 52 sundays in a year -.-

Look at what I've found! The meaning of CRAP:

Completely ridiculous anthropic principle (CRAP):
"At the instant the Omega Point is reached, life will have gained control of
all matter and forces not only in a single universe, but in all universes whose existence is logically possible; life will have spread into all spatial regions in all universes which could logically exist, and will have stored an infinite amount of information, including all bits of knowledge which it is logically possible to know. And this is the end." (Barrow and Tipler 1986: 677)

Found and taken off wikipedia. Go read about anthropic principle to find out more, or just watch the 'Melancholy of Haruhi Suzumiya,' the anime series. I am also impressed by the series hurhur.

Friday, September 15

Climbing Website Links

Heyz,

This would be a series of introduction (for the jrs and whoever that dont already know) to a few climbing websites. Would be good to visit them to pick up some tricks and tips for improvement or just to watch some videos and be inspired!

No. 1 on the fav charts is the Petzl videos, nicely edited n beautifu videos. But selection is limited n new videos take eons to come out (if ever)
http://en.petzl.com/petzl/frontoffice/Sport/static/Video/index.jsp

A manual on climbing training which u can download in pdf format. Useful knowledge on the different aspects of climbing and maybe could tailor some of the training suggestions for own improvement. Good place to start. If you dont understand any of the terms mentioned in the document you can ask any of the seniors ya?
http://www.mikedoyle.ca/climbing/coachingdoc_1.shtml#SEC1

No. 1 on the beautiful climbing photos site (my opinion again of course).
http://www.onsight.com.au/gallery/overseas/index.htm

Wednesday, September 13

Climb On! '06

yo all! got the results for climb on liao...meifen neva hand in scorecard so not included inside

Congrats to our champ ZX and Weimin tied with a total of 32830 points. Highest point route completed was by Christer Jansson. (2500)

Its a good experience for all, so don't be worried if you didn't do well this time, there's still a long way ahead and much more to learn as well.

Learnt a lot as the registration I/C for climb on (cos SOMEONE backed out then I somehow got roped in). Was a battlefield at the registration counter, at 8am, 11am and when tabulating the results cos the real time updating system had some screw ups....programming-wise as well as the people keying in the results; but its a start - probably next year they're gonna refine the system of both score keeping and registration.
Plus the thing I know I've definitely learnt is: (Coach pls take note) I'm not gonna do registration in future - too taxing for my feeble brain - stressed sia. Gotta find someone more capable to do it.

Looking at my score ah...like so far away from the rest....weak sial. gotta train harder after my fingers recover. glad to see the rest doing so well too...

Tuesday, September 12

climb -on

I think Climb@sia did a great job for climb on, I enjoyed it.

The routes were great and plentiful, the wireless updating via PDAs very impressive(I want to learn!), Kiat was a good DJ and the atmosphere quite bustling and energetic. It was also nice (especially nice for someone..[pai!!:D]) seeing foreign climbers coming from Thai, m'sia to take part leaving me in awe at their strength O.O

The only problems were the queues and how some route judges didnt follow the prescribed sequence of allowing ppl to climb.

CLIMB ON! 2006 @ EXPO

From the photo contribution of Junjie (not Kiat), we have some of the photos of the enjoyable climbing experience (minus the waiting) that is Climb On! For all that were not able to make it, here's what you've missed. Do share more photos!











Top: Teckie basking in the limelight

Clara and Cynthia putting up the smiles for the camera. Go girls!

Shumei traversing an apparently barren wall. How is she going to do it...


Char with her Anasazi, puma jacket, score card n big bright smile










Power San (she's getting amazingly strong), that Char again in the middle n Khadijah. My apologies... powerpuff girls somehow came into my mind...

Peng Yang and You Jie soaking up the competition @ Climb On!

The ZONE man... it's all abt the ZONE. Go get the route Claudia! Teck... watching and learning









Right: ME! Haha... after all this hardwork posting the pics must at least show face mah

Far Right: My nemesis, Liu Li. Haha... no lah. Strong climbing partner. See the smug smile on his face! Haha...

Our special Guest-of-Honour @ Climb On! - Miss Li Liying. Yeapz, Sports Ball everyone.
Fen Fen with her... bent fingers. Take care girl



Ah yes... Getting all nice and squeezy on the train ride back. Our threesome of Kum, Dan and JJ










Hope everyone had fun =] Though climbing wise was crap for me but was still a good experience being able to try sooo many different style of routes at one time. Here's a thank you to the organizers (and helpers... haha...) of Climb On! Next year pple!

P.S. Who won all treats?


Sunday, September 10

Aussie Spring


"i am not a flower. i am the sun."


Saw this wonderful photo from my friend's (desmond) photo collection. This little image doesnt do the photo justice. The full size image is so rich in vibrancy and detail. Hope it warms everyone too. Just remember that it's spring somewhere! Here's to pleasant beautiful days.

Thursday, September 7

Krabi Wonderland

My 2nd Video -
The Krabi Adventure Chronicles!






I really enjoyed it for the memories and feelings it evoked. I hope you do too

my first edited video :)



This is when i should be doing EE2001 project


Addition:

Below is Weimin's Tidal wave redpoint...Dunno why but many people aim to complete this route. After this video, i realised that it was lacking music so proceeded on to make the other two. But i am now lazy to edit it. Takes a lot of time ok! most of it just waiting for my laptop to do the video processing.



Sunday, September 3

my fav fotos from krabi jul06

Sunrise
Sunset
young love!
Trekking.. in the end my thighs were more shack than my forearms..
horsing ard
Riesenbaby. Short and easy, but nice.
Multipitch - belay is more siong than the climb.
Multipitch - the more safety, the safer! (scared la, we noob)
One (among many) of liu li's fire - choke both mosquitoes and humans :D
Liu li, full crimp!
Kaiyin always wanted to be D-Cup
Weimin always wanted a longer span
Cherlyn ... practicing for next yr's sports pageant
white bikinis
when we can't wrestle 1. on the sand 2.on top of canoes 3.in the sea, we 4. arm-wrestle... Wrestling sub club, hoo!
Canoeing with the teos